High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Alpine Mountaineering Gallery / Traverse of The Eiger (3970m)

Traverse of The Eiger (3970m)

Mittelegi Ridge from the Hut

Cloud hanging over the North Face

Approaching the summit of the Eiger on the Mittelegi Ridge, Swiss Alps


Rob & Al, Eiger Summit, August 1995

After a fine ascent of the Mittelegi Ridge and before an awful descent of the South West Flank!

Celebrating With a (Free) Beer at Kleinne Scheidegg

After Climbing the Eiger

The Crux of the Approach to the Mittelleggi Hut

This interesting limestone rock pitch provides a steep start to the Mittelleggi Hut approach. Whilst this is much more technical than the rest of the approach (and most of the whole traverse) it is also a lot more solid and better protected!

The Loose Approach Traverse to the Mittelleggi Hut

This rising traverse across the Eiger South Face takes a series of loose and exposed ledges and provides opportunities for alpine route finding as there is a relatively small amount of fixed gear and waymarks.

The 'New' (2001) Mittelleggi Hut

In a superb position on this NE ridge with the North Face on the right and South Face on the left. This hut can be seen from Grindlewald and whilst it is usually approached from the Eigergletscher station it can also be approached from Grindelwald.

Dawn on the Mittelleggi Ridge With the Hut Beyond

The Shreckhorn is on the right and Wetterhorn on the left

British Mountain Guide Bruce Goodlad Enjoys the Scrambling on the Mittelleggi Ridge

Note the generally unhelpful slant of the limestone which can provide some delicate, rather than difficult climbing which becomes a lot harder with ice or snow.

The Less Delicate Side of the Eiger - Hauling on 'The Ropes'

The ascent of the fixed ropes plays a large role on the ascent of the Mittelleggi Ridge and the butch nature of the climbing makes a stark contrast to the delicate limestone slab climbing. A stark contrast is also evident between the slate grey of the smooth rock, brilliant white of the north face snow and lush green of the meadows of Alpiglen over 2000m below.

A Moment to Pause on the Mittelleggi Ridge & Enjoy the Bernese Obeland Panorama

Shreckhorn on the left; Finsterahorn on the right; the final tower of the Mittelleggi Ridge behind and the summit snow crest ahead...

The Superb Summit Snow Crest of the Mittelleggi Ridge

With the lake and lush green valleys around Interlaken below

The Final Steps Before Reaching the Summit of the Eiger

On Swiss Independence Day and, for me, 17 years to the day since my first ascent of the mountain during my first alpine season in 1995

Leaving the Eiger Summit to Start the South Ridge Descent

Monch & Jungfrau forming the background Oberland giants

The Eiger South Ridge Descent

This long route involves numerous pitches, mainly with fixed gear as anchors and also includes the long traverse of the Eigerjoch which also carries on a bit!

The Key Rock Passage on the Traverse of the Eigerjoch

This delicate move is usually done in crampons and provides one of the few more memorable technical climbing 'moves' on the Eiger traverse.

The Traverse of the Eigerjoch with the Eiger South Ridge Beyond

The tiny white dot of the Mittelleggi Hut is visible on the far right of the ridge giving a bit of scale and context to demonstrate how much mountaineering terrain is covered on the Eiger Traverse

Celebratory Drinks at the Monchsjoch Hut After the Eiger Traverse.

British Guides Mark Thomas & Rob Jarvis with Mat & Martin celebrating their Eiger Traverse in perfect conditions on the 1st August 2012

Ice axes wait expectantly whilst pointing towards the Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger.

The hut is quiet but conditions are near perfect. Late July 2013

Leaving the Eismeer Station on the Eiger South Face en Route to the Mittellegi Hut

Good snow conditions on the glacier in late July 2013 mean the entrance door from the station to the glacier is only just passable!

The Initial Rock Pitch off the Glacier to Access the South Face Terraces Leading to the Mittellegi Hut

Good snow cover on the glacier here mean that the lower and trickier part of the pitch is under snow and stepping direct off the glacier to the main, easier, corner line is possible.

The Key Terrace Traversing the Eiger South Face to the Mittellegi Hut (visible top left)

This terrace is accessed by moving up a little directly after the two initial rock pitches and is followed right across towards the final slopes below the hut which are taken roughly in the middle. Pretty loose everywhere but some terraces are a bit bigger than others!

Evening Alpenglow Over the Mittellegi Hut

With the Finsterarhorn (left) & Fiescherhorn - Bernese Oberland 4000ers - in the background

The Final Steps of the Elegant Snow Ridge on the Mittellegi Ridge

With the weather not being quite as good as forecast be Meteo Suisse!

The Quality of the Scrambling Continues On the Eiger South Ridge & Traverse to EigerJoch , On and On!

The foot of the impressive limestone south face of the Eiger is beyond