High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Mountaineering / Aiguille Croux (3256m) SW Ridge, AD


Aiguille Croux (3256m) SW Ridge, AD

High on the Brilliant South West Ridge of the Aiguille Croux

An excellent mountaineering route in an awesome position beneath the mighty South Face of Monte Bianco

The Superb Monzino Hut (2590m)

Situated between the mighty glaciers of Freney & Brouillard; high above the Miage Glacier and below the huge South face of Monte Bianco above. Not only is the Monzino Hut in a fantastic position it is a seriously solid, pleasant and well run mountain hut.

Big Boot Rock Climbing Training Near the Hut

This pleasant little crag above the Brouillard glacier gives some good training in preparation for the higher ascents from the Hut. Aiguille Croux, Punta Inominata...and beyond....

Eccles, Freney, Brouillard, Inominata, Monte Bianco. The Sign Post Says it all. What a Place!

As well as having several excellent alpine routes from the hut itself the Monzino is also a staging post for those en route to the Eccles bivi hut and routes high on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

The Approach to the Monzino From Val Veny is both Beautifull & Fun!

Parking at 1660m in the lovely alpine meadows of Val Veny is the starting point to the fun approach to the Monzino. There are 3 stages of Via Ferrata which can be done as an individual with Via Ferrata clipping gear or as an alpine team threading the in-situ pigs tails. Either way it's good fun and a direct approach to the impressively situated hut.

En Route to the Aiguille Croux from the Monzino

With the Brouillard & Inominata Ridges Framing the Skyline. The start of the SW ridge of the Croux is only a short walk from the hut so a super early alpine start is not required.

The Lower Section of the Ridge Gives Broken Scrambling

The old route took the Neve slopes on the left but as these have retreated a new line is taken more directly up the buttress. This has the advantage of giving the whole ascent a real feeling of being a traverse with almost entirely different lines being taken in ascent & descent.

Approaching the Terrace on the Aiguille Croux

The upper face is now visible with the SW Ridge forming the R hand end to the face and the Voie Normale & descent route taking the central depression.

A Series of Good Pitches of F3-5 and lots of Scrambling Form the Basis of This Fine Alpine AD

There are quite a lot of in-situ bolts on the routes as both protection and anchors. The climbing is sustained & exposed and in a magnificent setting.

A Series of Bolted Rappel Anchors Provides A Rapid Descent of the West Face

The anchors are well bolted and at intervals of 25m or less. The rappel line goes down on to the upper Glacier du Chatelet thereby avoiding the descent of the broken lower scrambling ground taken in ascent.

Panini, Café Latte & Lemon Soda. Italian Snack in the Sun Before Descending the Via Ferrata Back to Val Veny

A great end to a brilliant weekends mountaineering in an amazing place. All possible over a short weekend from Geneva Airport....