High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Mountaineering / German Assassin (II,4) 350m, Triangle du Tacul


German Assassin (II,4) 350m, Triangle du Tacul

Approximate Line of 'German Assassin', Mont Blanc du Tacul

This fine mixed buttress sits between the two classic ice routes of Cheré Couloir (R) and Contamine Mazaued (L). The line described gives five good mixed pitches followed by 3 rappels down the Chere Couloir (on 2 X 60m ropes)

British Guide Dave Hollinger Setting off on The Enjoyable First Pitch

The route is sustained at about Scottish grade IV mixed but has a few short sections up to Scottish technical 6.

Classic North Face Terrain (on an East Face!) on the Second Pitch

This easier pitch provides the link between the lower and upper icy grooves. The line of 'German Assassin' takes a gentle rightward rising traverse across the face up these grooves and cracks.

Dave Delicately Tackling the Crux of the 3rd Pitch

Having climbed this small overlap there is the option to head directly in to the obvious icy upper groove or trend right (as we did) to tackle some solid granite cracks splitting the buttress to the right.

Dave Topping Out on the 4th Pitch & Eyeing Up the Tricky Start to the 5th Pitch!

Dave is trying out the new Edlerid 'Rage' Ice Axes with the Edlerid bungy cords. Beyond the Aiguille Verte, Droites, Courtes is visible descending from left to right.

Thin Icy Mixed Climbing on the Brilliant Last Pitch

Good gear and hooks prevail in the sanctuary of the left hand crack but this must be left for a short precarious traverse in to the superb thin ice sliver in the groove to the right. This leads to a bolt belay overlooking the Cheré Couloir.