High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Mountaineering / Petits Charmoz (2867m) Traverse (AD)


Petits Charmoz (2867m) Traverse (AD)

Approaching the Petits Charmoz Across the Nantillons Glacier

The approximate line of the traverse is indicated with the various descent options from the summit. The Aiguille de l'M is on the left with the 'Col de la Buche between the two peaks.

The Initial Crux Chimneys of the Petits Charmoz Traverse

These short but steep pitches are on well worn granite and have several pitons in place - both of which aid route finding! These pitches are only graded up to 4b but are quite steep and awkward and would be tricky if wet.

High on the Superb Summit Ridge of the Petit Charmoz

With Chamonix's famous 'Mer de Glace' below

The Second Pitch Through the Initial Chimneys Offers Good Climbing

A fine rising traverse is taken across a slab to access this upper chimney and then easy ground leading to the Col de l'Etala. This section is very loose and could create a rock fall hazard from teams above the chimneys.

From the Col de l'Etala There Are Superb Views Across the Mer de Glace

Towards the Charpoua Basin and South - West flanks of the Drus, Verte & Moine

Excellent Chamonix Granite Mountaineering on the Petits Charmoz Traverse

With fine views up the Nantillons Glacier and across to the Grands Charmoz (left) and Aiguille du Blaitiere (right)