High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Mountaineering / Vent du Dragon, (M5, 200m) Midi N. Face


Vent du Dragon, (M5, 200m) Midi N. Face

Andy Squeezes Through the Icy Chockstone At the top of Pitch 3

A bolted belay is just above this chockstone

Rappel in to the Cunningham Couloir from the Midi

Vent du Dragon & other routes on this wall can be accessed via the scary abseil from the Midi station bridge or from above on the Cosmiques Arete

Ben Enjoys the Ice Smeared Granite Wall on Pitch 4

This pitch pulls through an overhang, climbs an icy groove from where some steep rocky cracks to the left can be taken to a bolt belay or the continuation groove tops out on the pinnacles on the Cosmiques Arete. These can be easily traversed to finish quickly up that route to the station. Hopefully before the last lift departs!

Ben in the Final Chimey Close to the Cosmiques Arete

The impressive atmosphere of the Midi North West Face below...

The Alternative Abseil Approach...

From the Cosmiques Arete to the top of the face & then abseiling down the line of the route. This saves the scary rappel from the Midi bridge! Photo thanks to Andy Perkins - http://www.andypmountainguide.com/

Classic Chamonix Ice Goulotte

Golden Granite - Squeaky Ice - Golden Granite. Perfect axe placements & bomber rock gear, a climbers dream! Photo thanks to Andy Perkins - http://www.andypmountainguide.com/

The Atmospheric Upper Cunningham Couloir Below the Midi Station

A series of rappels from the Midi station leads one down in to this adventurous feeling places with some good North facing mixed routes to reach the Cosmiques Arete....

Vent du Dragon Photo Topo

The dashed red line takes the approximate line of the climb. A good idea of the ice conditions can be gained from the viewing balcony overlooking the Chamonix Valley & close to the departure gate for Chamonix from the Midi. We made 4.5 Abseils from the Midi bridge to the start of the route. The first 3 anchors (after the bridge!) were double bolted belays.

The Superb Ice Runnel on P3 Leading to the Crux Mixed Section

After this lovely runnel of ice, with both ice screws & rock gear on the right a trickier mixed ramp is taken traversing left above a smooth slab and below an overlap. The ramp offered just enough room for a shuffling climber, with very little to spare & could be tricky of there was more build up here as it provides a key passage between the two fine icy grooves. Photo thanks to Graeme Barr.