High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Rock Climbing / Aiguille de l'M, North East Arete, 200m F5b


Aiguille de l'M, North East Arete, 200m F5b

The Aiguille de l'M North Face

The route takes the left hand skyline. Aiguille du Blatiere on the right

Brilliant Granite Crack Climbing (Chamonix Style) in the 'Diedre Magnifique'

A superb sustained pitch, given F4c but it feels a bit harder on the airy and slightly off-width sections. The rest is very well protected and provides the best climbing on this excellent route

The First Pitch of the NE Buttress

High quality granite wall climbing from the start - a relief after the stiff walk in! Montenvers and the Mer de Glace visible well below.

The Upper NE Buttress From the 2nd Belay

The pitch above is a fine 4c wall with two (welcome!) pegs and the magnificent 4c diedre is visible above that. Several sustained pitches of good climbing in a superb position.

David Relaxes on the Spacious 2nd Belay As the Morning Sun Warms the Ridge

The North Face is on the left and takes longer to dry. Snow patches and wet cracks were evident there on this day.

Excellent Vista from the NE Ridge Across to the Aiguille Verte

From far Left to Right: Grands Montets, Les Drus, Verte, Les Droites, Aiguille du Moine

The Airy Summit of the Aiguille de Moine

Dome du Gouter on the Left.

Summit of the M From the Col de la Buche, The 'Voie Normale'

A 25m rappel is taken from just below the summit to a wide terrace. From here a very short abseil reaches another terrace which accesses the top of the slabs leading down to the Col de la Buche. From here a rough path descends to the ladders which are descended to very rough ground at the base of the Nantillons glacier from where a descent to Montenvers or the Plan can be made.

David Descending from Our Traverse of the Aiguille de l'M

An excellent granite mountain day with a lot of physical walking on rough ground and climbing on Chamonix cracks!