High Mountain Guides / Gallery / Chamonix Rock Climbing / Pyramide du Tacul East Ridge, 270m, IV+


Pyramide du Tacul East Ridge, 270m, IV+

Pyramide du Tacul, East Ridge. Superb Chamonix Granite Rock Climbing

The red line marks the ascent route and the black line marks the abseil route. Note that the crossing of the bergschrund can be tricky, especially in late summer.

High Quality Granite Rock Climbing at About French 4c

Established on the east ridge of the Pyramide du Tacul, Chamonix

Alpine Sunset Over the Vallee Blanche Approaching the Pyramide du Tacul

Dent du Geant in the background

Crossing the Bergschrund to Access the Pyramide du Tacul

This approach is made via a glacial valley threatened by serac fall and crossing the bergschrund can be tricky in hot / dry conditions.

Having Left Crampons & Axes at the Base of the Cliff the Rock Climbing Starts

The first 2 pitches can be linked to form a fine 50m intro pitch that accesses the east ridge proper

Topping out on the steep but well protected 6th pitch, excellent climbing

A photo of this fine pitch features in Gaston Rebuffat's '100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc Massif' book. This route gets you 20 'Gaston Points!'

Conditions get snowy at the top of pitch 7

This is the junction with the abseil route and a swift descent can be made from here, mainly down fine granite slabs

The Impressive & Free Hanging Abseil down the Great Slab of the SE Face

Be careful not to abseil past the quite subtle anchor on the granite wall below, otherwise a strenuous & tedious prussik back up is required!

Abseiling the SE Face, 5 Abseils from the top of pitch 7

The seracs of the 'Diable' are evident in the background.

Tired but Happy to Return to the Torino Hut after a Great Day of Alpine Rock Climbing

The route can also be accessed from the Aiguille du Midi or Cosmiques Hut