Becoming An Alpinist
Independent Alpinist Team Moving Together
Roped rocky / mixed ridge moving together training. How far to be apart, whether to use natural spikes as protection, place gear or move swiftly together with no gear. All decisions requiring judgement & experience. The nuts & bolts of taking / dropping coils however can & should be learnt quickly so the team becomes efficient in changing the strategy.
Roped Snow Covered Glacier Travel
Is this team far enough apart on the glacier? What will happen if one team member falls in to a crevasse? If they do, what is the simplest solution to that problem!? Disciplined roped glacier travel is an essential part of Becoming an Alpinist & mountaineering throughout the worlds big glaciated mountains.
Steeper Pitched Mixed Climbing
Sometimes moving together is not the best option and speed must be sacrificed for security. This is fine as technical sections are allowed for in the guide book time. They take longer than the easy sections! The point is that time must be saved when possible by being well prepared, having a plan, getting up early, taking the right route, being fit & moving swiftly over easy ground, managing the rope etc. This list goes on. Becoming An Alpinist is no easy path!
Multi Pitch Rock Climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges
The training day started with a discussion of the relationship between safety & speed and how we achived the latter without compromising the former! Technical aspects of movement skills were covered on the approach and then several pitches of roped multi pitch climbing up to F5b, before easier ground was reached and the approach to the main event of the Aiguilles Crochues ridge traverse.
June 2015 Becoming An Alpinist Team, Aiguilles Crochues Traverse
The fine ridge traverse (C. PD+) provides enjoyable scrambling in ascent, descent & horizontal! Great rock, good views and an interesting journey between 2 major cirques of the Aiguilles Rouges....passing the fine mountain refuge cafe at Lac Blanc! Great training for moving together, with & without running belays; dropping coils to climb a pitch of climbing and make an abseil.
Team Training For Multi Pitch Abseil Descents
Descending the North Face of Pointe Lachenal using rock & ice anchors. Great training for the serious and complicated business of building & using alpine anchors for descending from a route or retreating. An important skill!
June 2015 Becoming Alpinists Team On The Summit Of Pt. Lachenal (3613m)
After a fine team ascent of the North Face via a series of fun & technical ice, mixed & snow pitches. Multi Pitch abseil descent of the North Face made afterwards.
Matt, Dave & Michael Enjoying High Altitude Sun Rock On The Entreves Traverse - July 2015
This fine 3500m peak high on the French - Italian Alpine border gives an excellent AD- traverse. Superb quality granite, enjoyable scrambling with some short climbing sections and great moving together and pitching training. There is also a 4 pitch descent which requires care whether it is down climbed with protection or abseiled. A grand day out!
June 2015 Team Route Finding Discussion SW Face Aiguiille d'Orny - Voie La Classique (5b)
This route gives a fairly short approach from the hut but enjoyable climbing with an adventurous middle mountain feel. With bolted belays & good route finding the climb can be completed quite swiftly in the afternoon after the morning hut approach. There are occasional bolt runners but the terrain is still adventurous with route finding and trad gear placements required. There is also an interesting abseil, then scrambling descent.
Lovely Climbing Position Above The Orny Glacier
The stay at the Orny Hut and ascent of the SW Face of the Aiguille d'Orny and South Ridge Aiguille Purtsceheller gave an inspiring & informative couple of challenging alpine days despite the hot weather even in the high mountains.
Becoming An Alpinist...On The Aiguille Purtscheller South Ridge (D)
Matt enjoys some of the best high mountain rock climbing he has ever done on the brilliant sustained series of granite features, walls, cracks, chimneys. An adventurous and fun little big route on the Swiss side of the Mt Blanc Massif.