High Mountain Guides / Gallery / The Alpine 4000m Peaks / Grandes Jorasses 4208m

Grandes Jorasses 4208m

Grandes Jorasses North Face

Taken from the Leschaux Glacier in October

The Shroud, N. Face Grandes Jorasses

Tim Blakemore climbing. East flank of the Walker Spur on the right.

The Beautiful Start To The Grandes Jorasses Hut Walk In...

For Grandes Jorasses climbers the charming little Rifugio Boccalatte is reached in around 3 hours from the beautiful Val Feret. The path has a lovely initial section through houses, bars and churches before meandering through the woods and meadows above the Val Feret. After a couple of little river crossings the path becomes rough and contains various ropes and ladder sections.

Franco Perlotto, Guardian Of The Rifugio Boccalatte & Legendary Italian Climber

The Boccalatte hut is a great base camp from which to make the ascent of the Jorasses, or, for the only other team there, to start the traverse to Hellbroner via the Jorasses, Canzio bivi hut and Rochefort Ridges. Franco has some great stories about climbing with the likes of Cassin, Doug Scott, Joe Tasker etc etc.

Great Views From The Rifugio Boccalatte

Down in to the Val Feret, Courmayeur and across the upper Val d'Aosta to Gran Paradiso, Grivola and Mont Emelius

Rock Climbing In The Dark On The Rocher Reposoir

Various pitches of 3 must be negotiated to access the fine long upper crest of the buttress that leads up and across in to the Whymper Couloir. There is lots of fixed gear on various different lines of various different levels of difficulty and looseness!

The Superb Upper Snow Crest Of The Reposoir Buttress

With magnificent dawn views across to the South Face of Monte Bianco. Tremendous snow conditions in mid July 2016.

After The Crossing Of The Whymper Couloir, The Ascent Of The Rocher Whymper

This ramp provides a couple of short pitches of 3 which lead on to the crest of the buttress from where the upper snow plateau can be accessed. There is lots of fixed gear on this ramp and a bolted anchor at the top.

The Upper Plateau Which Provides 3 Route Options To Reach The Summit

The old classic route traverses the plateau under the grand serac and then tackles mixed ground directly to the summit of Pt Walker. The Rocher Whymper can also be taken up to Pt Whymper and then the summit ridge traversed to the main Pt Walker summit. The 3rd option was tracked today and takes a steep snow couloir between the serac and the ridge.

Good Snow Conditions On The Final Direct Ascent To Pt Walker

This section involves some straight forward snow slopes and short steep mixed walls and is less sustained and technical then the other two rock / mixed sections. The final snow slopes then lead easily to magnificent views from the summit of the Grandes Jorasses.

Paul Arrives On The Summit Of The Grandes Jorasses

This is Pt Walker (4208m) with Pt Whymper just beyond, and various other summit providing the tough traverse of the Jorasses leading west beyond that. A great alpine peak and tough summit to reach via any route.

The Grand Serac Beneath The Grandes Jorasses Summit Ridge

Photo Record of the serac in mid July 2016. Some small bits of debris on the plateau beneath.

Descent Of The Reposoir Snow Crest

The left hand side of the ridge here has an easterly aspect is one of several reasons why this route is best climbed at night with an early return to the hut before snow conditions deteriorate.

Steep & Solid Rappels Once The Lower Section Of The Reposoir Buttress Is Reached

There are several well placed bolted anchors on this lower part of the rock section to facilitate rapid descent. These can generally be linked with a single 50m rope.