High Mountain Guides / Gallery / The Alpine 4000m Peaks / Rimpfischhorn 4199m

Rimpfischhorn 4199m

Great Views Of The Matterhorn East Face & Hornli Ridge

From the summit of the Rifflehorn (2928m), climbed as part of the approach day to Berhausflue, using the Gornergrat railway. The Rifflehorn traverse gives an enjoyable and fairly short outing from Rotenboden station. We climbed the enjoyable series of short but steep and polished steps on the East ridge, enjoyed the summit views and descended the West Ridge via one steep pitch with fixed rope.

Looking Across To Monte Rosa & Liskamm

Enjoyable mixed ground on the ridge just below the Rimpfischattel, so just below 4000m

Rob & Paul On Rimpfischhorn Summit

1st October 2015. No other teams on the mountain and very quiet in the Berhgausflue and Zermatt in general. A fantastic time to climb!

The Long Ascent Of The Rimpfischhorn From Berghausflue

This topo shot taken from Riffelhorn shows the long & physical ascent initially up through the lovely meadows, then boulder fields above Fluealp to the Pfulwe Col at 3155m. An important route finding element of the ascent here is to traverse the North side of the Pfulwe peaks to the obvious shoulder on the NNW ridge from where the rising traverse back to the main ridge above the Langfluegletscher can be made. Broken but easy rock terrain and snow slopes lead to the fine scrambling SW ridge below Rimpfischattel from where the climb of the summit bastion begins. See other photos for route finding notes.

Base Camp Is Really Excellent For This Climb!

The Berghausflue Hut / Hotel is positioned in the lovely Flue Alps and can be accessed via a walk from the Gornergrat railway (from Riffelalp) or, more rapidly, from the Sunnegga - Blauherd lifts.

Hearty Food, Good Wine & Great Hospitality

Whilst the Berghausflue is a private hut (not owned by the Swiss Alpine Club) it is good value compared to other private Swiss huts and considering the great service. It costs 92CHF for a single room (dinner, bed & breakfast) and 72 CHF for a dormitory bed which is not much more than a standard SAC night.

Atmospheric Autumnal Dawn At Fluealp

With the east face of the Matterhorn catching the early morning sun though the clouds. This was a much later start than normal for the ascent of the Rimpfischhorn as the weather was forecast to improve later in the day and the daytime freezing level was 2500m thus giving less time pressure for an early return to the hut where we were also spending a 2nd night, which was welcome on our early evening return!

The Ascent Of Langfluegletscher

After the traverse round the north side of Pfulwe peak. The peak itself has a cairned path leading up from the col on the route at 3155m but this should be avoided as the eastern side of the mountain is steep and its northern traverse offers the route to those bound for the Rimpfischhorn.

High On The Summit Bastion Above Rimpfischattel

This snow field is the third section of the ascent of the peaks itself from Rimpfischattel. The first section takes the initial couloir followed by a leftward rising traverse round on to this West Face which can be climbed in several pitches. Good snowy conditions today in early October. At the top of this section a short ramp and wall gains the SW crest via a metal stake and then the lovely short rocky pitch up the South side gains the fore summit and connecting ridge to the main summit.

At Last, The Summit Can Be Seen At Close Range!

All that remains is this superb final summit ridge and a few steps to the cross and magnificent views. There is a summit guest book attached to the large cross and a small memorial plack which was damaged and we tried to remove and return to the hut for repair but did not quite have the right allen key tool size!

Final Steps Along The Rimpfischhorn Summit Ridge

With the whole of the Monte Rosa Massif and Stralhorn as a magnificent backdrop and superb views all round of the rest of the Zermatt skyline.

Paul Makes An Entry On The Summit Guest Book!

The last visitors had been on the summit 4 days before us and, with the hut closing in a couple of days, this may be the last ascent for a while. There are good places to bivi / camp around the Pfulwe col for hardy teams wanting to climb out of the main hut opening season.

Enjoyable Slabby Rock Pitch On The Descent

This is the key passage on the South Face of the SW ridge and links the upper snow field & short chimney with the fore summit. A great exposed position but with solid rock, good holds and plenty of protection if required.

Sunset Over The Zermatt Skyline - After The Long Walk Back Down

After the trickier and more technical initial section of descent to Rimfischattel much of the rest of the descent can be completed in swift style as it is generally easy ground - but a long way and, with our later autumn start, the 2nd night at Berghausflue was certainly appreciated!