Three weeks of warm and sunny alpine weather has made it's mark on climbing conditions across the Western Alps. Rock routes, even at the highest altitude became totally dry and snow free whilst some of the glaciers and classic easy snow ascents became awkward icy challenges.
Many teams have been out making the most of the warm, stable weather and in the last few weeks I've climbed the... more>
Sam, Richard and I completed the traverse of the 2nd highest peak in the Alps, the Dufoursptize, in good time (9 hours) from the Monte Rosa Hut.
Starting very early from the hut means an hour or so of rough, rocky ground must be endured to reach the glacier. The lower section of this was dry and complicated and friend and colleague, Dale, a large American Guide, ending up pulling 2 dif... more>
The warm and dry conditions continue to give fantastic conditions for high mountain rock routes alpine traverses throughout the Western Alps.
Jenny and I made the most of these conditions and completed the classic traverse of the Matterhorn, up the Italian Ridge and down the Hornligrat back to the Zermatt lift system. In this way it is possible to 'comfortably' make the traverse in 2 d... more>
Strong and cold winds whipped across the exposed upper slopes of Mont Blanc yesterday. However, with some judicious waiting in the Gouter and Valot huts, extensive cold weather clothing and a lot of determination, the wind did not stop us reaching the summit.
This was an emotional moment for Shaun (and subsequently the rest of us) who called his dad, who is suffering from Cancer, on th... more>