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Climb The Weissmies

The Superb Snowy Summit Ridge of the Weissmies (4017m)

Whilst, at 4017m the Weissmies only just makes it into the exclusive club of Alpine 4000m peaks, it has many more attributes to recommend an ascent than just its altitude...

The traverse of the Weissmies is a classic high alpine journey, among some of the Giants of the Swiss Alps, and provides an extremely enjoyable long weekend when combined with its neighboring 4000m peak, the Lagginhorn. This course is suitable for climbers with good fitness and some basic mountaineering experience and is a great progression for higher & more technical alpine ascents.

2018 Dates & Prices

With the Portjengrat on the other side of the col at 3268m

Latest Weissmies Climbing Conditions

Climb the Weissmies, Featuring...

  • Ascents of two fine Swiss alpine 4000m peaks
  • Rocky mountain scramble in ascent, glacial traverse in descent topped by a fine snowy & narrow summit ridge
  • 2 nights spent in lovely Swiss mountain huts. Superb locations, hospitable staff, good Swiss mountain food
  • Quality alpine mountaineering training
  • Great progression (and acclimatisation) towards climbing other 4000m peaks including Mont Blanc & the Matterhorn
  • Meet other like minded climbers for a sociable weekend in the mountains
  • An action packed long alpine weekend easily done from Geneva Airport & transfer to Chamonix
  • The option of returning to Chamonix at the end of the course or catching a train direct to Geneva from Martigny station

Day 1 - Journey Deep Into the Swiss Valais Alps

The 'Swiss Giants' of the Dom (right) & Tasch across the Saastal beyond

  • Our three day Weissmies course begins in Chamonix, easily reached from Geneva airport via a simple one hour transfer. Day 1 begins with introductions, a weather brief and equipment check. We can also hire out any alpine mountaineering equipment out at this stage. Please check our alpine mountaineering equipment list and mountaineering equipment hire pages in advance and let us know what items you will require.
  • Our onward car journey from Chamonix takes us east across the Swiss border and through the Vineyards of the Rhone Valley before we steadily ascend the classic Swiss alpine valley of the Saastal to Saas Grund. Here we leave the car, visit the cafe & climbing shop for any final items required and take the bus up to the village of Saas Almagell where the pleasant 7km, 4 hour hut walk begins.
  • The Almageller Hut is a classic Swiss Mountain Refuge. Attractive & hospitable, with good food, great views and the huts elevation of 2894m is a reasonable sleeping altitude for the first night spent up high. Dinner is served around 6.30pm and involves 4 courses including soup, salad, main course & dessert. Guten Appetit!

Day 2 - Traverse of the Weissmies (4017m)

  • On summit day breakfast is served at around 4am and our intention will be to leave the hut 45 mins after that. A rough & rocky path leads up through stony meadows where the classic alpine sensation of being surrounded by the bobbling head lamps of other teams gives a great pre-dawn atmosphere.
  • The arrival of dawn coincides with reaching the Zwischbergenpass at 3268m. Inspiring & expansive views contrast the first rays of sun from the East over the Italian plains and Lake Maggiore whilst the Swiss Alpine giants remain aloof in shadows to the west. A magnificent spot for a brief pause before ascending the snow slopes leading to the rocky South Ridge.
  • The South Ridge is not technically difficult but

    The Fine Portjengrat (3654m) traverse can be seen on the other side of the Zmischbengenpass

    is sustained & offers fun scrambling. It is a good introduction to this style of mountaineering in preparation for routes on the higher & harder alpine peaks. The delightful summit ridge presents a slightly exposed but enjoyable snow crest leading right to the summit and a breath taking panorama of the Alpine chain.
  • Whilst the ascent of the mountain, spread over two days from Saas Almagell has been long, the descent is relatively short and swift. Some steep snow slopes, crevasses and seracs require careful negotiation on this descent and the aim is to to complete the descent early whilst snow conditions remain good.
  • A relaxing early lunch can then be enjoyed at the 'Hohsaas' ski station & mountain hut with a great view of the North Flank of the mountain. We then make a short further descent of the mountain to reach the Weissmies Hut to spend the afternoon relaxing & preparing for another alpine start & ascent the next morning.

Day 3 - Climb the Lagginhorn (4010m)

  • Another 0400 breakfast is taken to start the ascent of The Lagginhorn. The classic route from the Weissmies Hut presents a climb of around 1000m graded alpine 'PD' and characterised by rough walking, easy scrambling and a few short steep snow or ice mountaineering sections.
  • The descent is relatively short and swift and considerably aided by the presence of the high ski lift which spares the knees for the descent down to the fleshpots of Saas Grund!
  • After lunch in Saas Grund the return drive to Chamonix is made with the option of being dropped off at Martigny train station for the direct train to Geneva Airport. Details of this rail journey can be checked on the Swiss Railway timetable website. We aim to be back in Chamonix by mid-late afternoon on day 3.

With the Swiss / Saas Giants beyond. From L-R, Alphubel, Tasch, Dom, Lenspitze, Nadelhorn

Required Fitness and Experience Levels

Some previous mountaineering experience is required for the traverse of the Weissmies. Those who have never worn crampons before should investigate our 'Chamonix Alpine Introduction' and 'Climb the Gran Paradiso' courses or arrange some private guiding & mountaineering training prior to the course.

Both ascents involve some rocky / mixed scrambling and somewhat narrow and exposed summit ridges so folk should have a head for heights, although the actual difficulty level is quite low. Steep snow must be negotiated efficiently in descent which is why some prior experience with crampons is necessary.

A very good level of fitness & stamina is also required for the long walk to the hut (4 hours) and 1100m climb to above 4000m on the 2 summit days (c. 5-8 hours).

Suggested Course Progression

A good build up to climbing the Weissmies would be completing our Intro Alpine Course and Climbing the Gran Paradiso. This would then set you up well for Climbing Mont Blanc.

After an 0400 breakfast at the Almageller Hut. Heading to the Weissmies hut via a good Swiss mountain lunch at the Hohsaas station

After that our series of Chamonix mountaineering courses forms a logical progression in the following order; 'Becoming an Alpinist' followed by Chamonix Alpinist & then Chamonix private guiding for harder / longer routes & north faces as well as our Climb the Eiger & Matterhorn courses.

When To Climb the Weissmies

Whilst the main season for climbing the Weissmies is high summer (June to September) it is possible to climb the mountain all year round according to weather and conditions. With stable snow conditions In winter and spring, most will make the ascent on skis via the high Hohsaas lift. Those looking for a quieter and tougher climbing experience may choose to climb in the Autumn when the mountain lifts and huts are all closed. Depending on conditions an ascent at this time may still be possible, using the hut's 'winter room' and indeed this can provide a remote feel & magical mountain journey.

Please note the Wiessmies or Climb the Gran Paradiso ascents can often be linked with each other and our Climb Mont Blanc / Climb the Matterhorn courses or would provide a useful springboard for more alpine climbing on a private guiding basis. Please get in touch with your own dates to arrange a private guide for the Wiessmies or an Autumn ascent. We run a range of 3 day courses throughout summer season. See our course dates below.


Thanks for putting together a brilliant couple of days on the Lagginhorn and Weissmies. Steve was the very model of patient, calm and friendly instruction and helped me enjoy an excellent introduction to the alps!

James Taylor, Weissmies & Lagginhorn, Sept 2013


We can also arrange excellent private guiding itineraries where it is possible to climb some other very good routes from the Almageller Hut (Dry Hornli Ridge & Traverse of the Portjengrat) and the Wiessmies Hut (South Ridge Lagginhorn, North Ridge Weissmies, Fletschorn, Jeggihorn etc) thereby creating a magnificent 3-5 day mountaineering itinerary in the upper Saastaal.


Aaron and I had a fantastic climb up the Weismeiss. Thank you for the great conversation and absolute professionalism. Thanks also for the trotti bike recommendation for the descent - that was awesome! Looking forward to the chance to do more.

Sari Long, Weissmeis Course, September 2015


Equipment List

Please refer to our classic alpine mountaineering equipment list for a summer traverse of the Weissmies.

Alpine Mountaineering

A summary of technical equipment & clothing required for summer alpine mountaineering. The alpine style involves climbing with a small & light pack that has all the essentials, sufficient emergency equipment, an... more>

2018 Course Dates & Prices

These courses sold have sold out every year from 2014-2017, so book early to reserve your place!

July 2 - 4

Monday - Wednesday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available. (Enquiries: 0)

Opportunity to do our 5 day Alpine Intro Course, or Becoming an Alpinist Course & Matterhorn training weekend beforehand.

August 1 - 3

Wednesday - Friday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available (Enquiries: 0).

Opportunity to do our 5 day Alpine Intro Course and 3 day Gran Paradiso course before this programme

Hut nights are 1st & 2nd August

September 9 - 11

Sunday - Tuesday Inclusive, 3 Days, 3 / 3 Places Still Available - Course Full - Please Enquire For 2018 Dates

Opportunity to do our 5 day Alpine Intro Course before this programme and 3 Day Mont Blanc afterwards, after a day off!

Hut nights are 9th & 11th September

2018 Price


Maximum guiding ratio of 1 Guide to 3 clients.

What’s included in the Price?

  • 3 days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Transport during the course from Chamonix to the Swiss Alps & back
  • Discounted equipment hire prices if required
  • Trip management & booking of mountain huts

What’s not included?

  • Dinner, bed and breakfast in the mountain huts, 77 Swiss Francs per person per night. Discounted if you are a member of an alpine club.
  • The guides dinner bed & breakfast at a discounted rate split between group members. E.g with 3 clients this would be c. 20 Swiss Francs each.
  • Chamonix Valley accommodation - please see our Chamonix Accommodation notes. Prices start from camping at C.10 euros per night, Bunkhouse for C.20 euros per night and hotel accommodation from around 40-50 euros upwards.
  • Lunches, drinks and snacks
  • The high mountain lift pass to descend from Hohsaas (C.25 Swiss Francs)
  • Flights and transfers to Chamonix
  • Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list above
  • Insurance suitable for alpine mountaineering in Europe

Further Details & Booking

For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:



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Climb The Weissmies, Current Conditions

If you have climbed on the Weissmies recently please add any relevant comments on climbing conditions via the 'New comment' button at the base of the page:


8th September 2015, Weissmies Traverse

Conditions on the glacial north side of the mountain have actually improved with recent snow fall and cooler temperatures after the hot summer had left the crevasses on this side of the mountain gaping! The lower glacier section to the Hohsaas track was dry & rocky and a bit tedious but otherwise this was a very enjoyable traverse starting on the last day of the chairlift opening from Saas Almagell.

6th August 2015, Weissmies Traverse & Lagginhorn Ascent

Great 3 days traversing the Weissmeis via the South Ridge from Almageller Hut and down the North Flank to Hohsaas. Mark was going so well the team were able to carry on and do the Jegihorn in the afternoon! The Lagginhorn normal route the next morning completed a good tough 3 days in the mountain and enjoyable journey through the upper Saastal.

21st June 2013, Decent conditions on the South Ridge & North Flank of the Wiessmies

Staff at the Almageller Hut reporting reasonable conditions and several teams climbing the mountain from this side over the last few days. The Hohsaas Hut reporting lots of snow on the Northern Flank of the mountain providing generally good conditions when the glacier is frozen. Several teams climbed the mountain today from Hohsaas and there is a good track in place.

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