High Mountain Guides / What we do / Alpine Mountaineering / The Mission

The Mission

Classic Alpine Rope Team After Dawn On Mont Blanc

Just After Dawn, High on the Ascent of Mont Blanc, The Highest Peak in the Alps

Climbing the three highest peaks in the Alps in one go is a superb mountain challenge. It is also a very tough and highly physical expedition. You will need high levels of fitness, determination, mental and physical endurance as well as good weather, conditions and a bit of luck! We provide first class guiding and mountain logistics on this beast of a 2 week course. Read on If you think you are up to the challenge....Most will not be!

2016 Course Dates & Prices

Previous Attempts on the Mission

Course Aim

  • Climb the three highest peaks in the Alps over a 2 week summer mountaineering course. The highest peak in Italy, the Gran Paradiso (4061m), is also climbed during the 3 day training phase.

The three highest independent peaks in the Alps are, in height order, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and The Dom. Whilst none of these peaks are too technically demanding they are all alpine mountaineering undertakings and should not be thought of as 'snow plods'. Each peak has sections of quality alpine 'PD' ground which includes scrambling on mixed terrain (rock, snow & ice) in crampons and on narrow snow ridges.

This course starts in Chamonix and aims to make three training & acclimatistation climbs before starting the business of tackling the big three demanding peaks. As an additional bonus 4000m peak we aim to climb the highest peak in Italy, the Gran Paradiso, as part of the initial training and acclimatisation phase. See below for a detailed itinerary.

  • Mont Blanc (4808m)
  • The Dufourspitze (At 4634m the principal summit of the Monte Rosa)
  • The Dom (4545m)

12 Day Mission Itinerary

This is a suggested itinerary based on good weather. It may be necessary to change the programme to make best use of local mountain conditions.

  • Pre-Course fitness training and, if you have the time, some walking and acclimatisation training in the hills above Chamonix for a few days before the course starts. We can offer advice on how to get the most out of these pre-course elements & making sure you have the right equipment.
  • Day 1: Welcome & introductory chat with the Guide and ask any questions about the week. A morning opportunity for buying or hiring any extra kit before heading across to the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif. The high 'Hellbroner' lift is taken and a 3500m peak like the Aiguilles Marbrees or Aiguilles d'Entreves is climbed whilst some solid training is given on mountaineering movement skills and glacier travel. The night is spent at the 3375m Torino Hut to start the acclimatisation process.
  • Day 2: Climb the Tour Ronde (3792m) from a classic pre-dawn alpine start. The aim is to get back to the hut for a pasta lunch and then descend through the lift system; drive down the Italian Valle d'Aoste and make our way up the Valsavaranche to the tiny hamlet of Pont where the 2 hour trek up to the Vittorio Emanuelle Hut (2732m) begins. The night is spent here enjoying Italian cuisine, coffee and hospitality.
  • Day 3: A pre-dawn start leads to the fine snow and glacial ascent of our first 4000m peak, The Gran Paradiso. There are superb views of the south side of our next objective, Mont Blanc. A mid afternoon finish in the valley and a welcome return to Chamonix for rest and relaxation.
  • Day 4: A deliberately late start is taken to allow a lie-in and maximum rest in Chamonix before a slow and steady 2 hour walk is taken to the 3167m Tete Rousse Hut. The aim is to be as relaxed and efficient as possible today in order to conserve energy for a big summit push tomorrow.
  • Day 5: The ascent of Mont Blanc. This is usually around a 10 - 12 hour round trip from the hut. We spend a second night at the hut to give a more relaxed feel to the ascent (not needing to rush down to catch the Mont Blanc train) and to conserve energy for the other forthcoming climbs. This also gives us a poor weather contingency day on day 6.
  • Day 6: 0700 breakfast at the Tete Rousse Hut and a leisurely walk back to the valley and on to Chamonix. Afternoon option for rock climbing or Via Ferrata. This day also acts as a poor weather contingency day for the ascent of Mont Blanc.
  • Day 7:A Welcome Rest day! Rest and relax in Chamonix. Sort any equipment required and prepare for the 2nd full on week of alpine mountaineering.
  • Day 8: Drive to Randa and walk up to the pleasant 2940m Dom Hut in the Swiss Valais Alps. Overnight here.
  • Day 9: The ascent of the Dom. If conditions allow we will climb the excellent big mountain ridge of the 'Festigrat' and complete the traverse of the mountain via the North Flank. Return and overnight at the Hut.
  • Day 10: Walk back to Randa and drive just up the valley to Tasch and on to the classic alpine town of Zermatt. After provisioning here we continue up to the impressively modern Monte Rosa Hut where we overnight in anticipation of a very early start for the long glacial ascent awaiting us in the night.
  • Day 11: The ascent of the 'Dufourspitze', principal summit of the Monte Rosa. This long glacial trek is topped of by an excellent mixed alpine ridge and the traverse of the summit block is completed with a steep descent to the Silberstel (Silver Saddle). Return to relax and celebrate completion of the Mission at the hut.
  • Day 12: Walk back to Zermatt and return to Chamonix or stay in the Swiss Valais to try another peak if weather and energy levels allow.
  • Day 13: Final days climbing either in the Swiss Valais or Chamonix Valley. This day also acts as a contingency day in the event of poor weather. Evening celebrations in Chamonix.

If you have completed 'The Mission'....Well Done!You will be joining a select club!

Who Can Climb The Mission?

Whilst it is not necessary to be a highly experienced mountaineer to climb the three highest peaks in the Alps with a Mountain Guide, high levels of fitness, stamina and determination are required. Some strong hill walking experience will be beneficial and we usually find that people who are only able to train in the gym do not do very well on such an extended mountain challenge. The summit days will be 9-13 hours long, at altitude, so you should be physically and mentally prepared for this considerable challenge. By their standard routes, Mont Blanc Monte Rosa and the Dom are not difficult technical peaks but they are large, have some mountaineering sections and folk regularly underestimate the level of challenge involved. Please get in touch to discuss your experience and fitness levels if you are not sure.

Course Equipment List

Mont Blanc Equipment List

Mountaineering equipment required for climbing Mont Blanc in normal summer conditions. Makes and models are examples only. Technical equipment (crampons, ice-axe, harness, helmet) can be hired from us. Try and ke... more>

Further Information

Doing the Dom

A traverse of the highest mountain in Switzerland and 3rd highest in the Alps.....The Dom

more>

2016 Course Dates & Prices

Our course includes 12 climbing / guided days. The Mission courses can be run throughout the summer months from June through to September. Specific dates can be accommodated according to personal preferences.

Cost

£2750, per person, based on 2 guests sharing the Guide for the duration.

£5350 for an individual booking a 1:1 Guiding ratio for the duration of the course.

Please note that for folk with some existing mountaineering experience the first week could be completed by doing one of our classic 6 Day Mont Blanc Courses, which also includes an ascent of the Gran Paradiso.

What’s included in the Price?

Our courses are priced on a 'guiding only' basis which means you pay the exact cost price for all other expenses like hotels, mountain huts and lift passes. These expenses amount to approximately 1200 euros which includes 13 nights half board accommodation in a hotel & mountain huts, lift passes for you and you and the guide. You could reduce this figure if you wanted to stay in a gite or camp and increase it if you want to stay in a more luxury hotel.

  • 12 full days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Transport during the course

What’s not included?

  • Valley accommodation. This course is based at 'Ice & Orange' (Chalet Tissiers) in Chamonix which offers pleasant half board accomodation from 46 euros per night. They only charge for the nights you are actually there and will happily store luggage when away in the mountain huts. If this is full or you would like an alternative style of accommodation please see our Chamonix Accommodation Notes.
  • Camping will significantly reduce the overall cost (starting from 9 euros) and there are several good campsites in 'Les Bossons', Chamonix, very close to Ice & Orange. Try 'Camping 2 Glaciers'; Camping les Cimes or Camping Les Marmottes.
  • Mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guides. Allow about 50 euros per night half board accommodation. The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts and on lifts. The best way to deal with these expenses is to make a communal group 'kitty' which you contribute to and all expenses are paid out of.
  • Flights and transfer from the airport to Chamonix
  • Lunches, extra drinks, snacks etc during the course
  • Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list above
  • Insurance

More Details & Booking

For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:

Contact

We are always delighted to hear from past, current and future clients so whether you have a booking enquiry, want a conditions report, or some mountaineering advice please do get in touch to discuss your plans...

Good climbing & skiing,

Rob

High Mountain Guides

Tel: +44 115 888 2994

Skype: High Mountain Guides

Email: Please use the form below

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Comments From Previous 'Missions'....

Please add your own comments if you have tried to climb the 3 highest peaks in the Alps or have relevant conditions reports from recent ascents of the Dom or Monte Rosa. Please add any comments on Mont Blanc conditions via the highlighted link.

Comments

August 2010, A Spirited Attempt on The Mission....

Joined by Swiss Alps based British Mountain Guide Paul 'Dobber' Wright, Rob and a team of 4 fit young London city bankers warmed up in tough windy, cloudy and snowy conditions on the Tour and Trient glaciers and mountain refuges. Against all odds and on a highly inclement forecast a tough trail breaking ascent was made of Mont Blanc. The team were all properly tired after this and although great fun, canyoning on the rest day was probably a 'bridge too far!'

The ascent of the Dom went well from the amazing applestrudel at the Dom Hut to fine conditions and a big mountain atmosphere on the Festigrat. The large amount of vertical height gain on this climb (the highest of any alpine mountain summit from the valley - no lifts here!) took its toll and instead of undertaking the grueling ascent of the Monte Rosa we returned to Chamonix for some 'Croissant and Café Alpinism'!

Good effort guys...but the first successful completion of the Mission remains for the taking. Who shall step forward?

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