Climb Mont Blanc from Italy
Monte Bianco's southern approach route starts from the Italian Val Veny, just half an hours drive from Chamonix yet has the welcome advantage of relative solitude compared to the busy northern French flanks of the mountain. Despite this major attraction, the ascent is a long and physically tough undertaking and not for faint hearted...or weak legged! Crevassing above the Gonella Hut, on the Glacier du Dome, can also be an issue especially later in the season or during a poor snow year.
However this is a high and magnificent mountain journey with an almost Greater Ranges / expedition feel thanks thanks to the huge glaciers journeyed over. Whilst any ascent of Mont Blanc is tough, this Italian route places greater physical demands on the climber than the French routes due to the absence of any lifts; long hut approach (5.5 hours) and even longer summit day (around 12 hours). Therefore it is even more necessary for folk attempting the mountain from this side to be extremely fit with and with excellent mountain endurance. This is only usually attained by actually spending long days in other hills and mountains and the Gym is not a realistic alternative to this.
We arrange a 7 day course to climb Mont Blanc from the Italian side. This allows greater acclimatisation and flexibility than the standard course. It also allows a good training / warm up period in which some excellent training climbs can be completed.
Climb Mont Blanc from Italy - 7 day programme - Suggested Itinerary
This is a suggested itinerary based on good weather. It may be necessary to change the programme to make best use of local mountain conditions
- Pre-Course: Fitness training and, if you have the time, some walking and acclimatisation training in the hills above Chamonix for a few days before the course starts. We can offer advice on how to get the most out of these pre-course elements.
- Arrive in Chamonix and settle in. Sort out any final equipment required for the week ahead, boot hire etc.
- Days 1-3: Introductions to the Guides and the week ahead; equipment checks and an opportunity for buying or hiring any final kit items in Chamonix. The aim of this initial trip will be to train the essential skills of ice-axe & crampon use and team glacier travel. Also to acclimatise by sleeping for two nights at around 3000m and spend time glacier trekking and doing some simple mountaineering, all at high altitude. On the third day we return to Chamonix to relax & recuperate with a full day off and prepare for the tough days ahead...
- Day 4: Day off
- Days 5 - 7:The ascent of Monte Bianco commencing with the long and highly atmospheric walk up to the Gonella Hut (3071m). Very occasionally it has been know for there to be a helicopter ride on offer to reach the hut! After an Italian pasta party dinner an early night is taken in preparation for a very early morning start and pre-dawn ascent of the Glacier du Dome. Higher up the superbly scenic ridge of the Aiguille du Bionassay is reached and traversed to the Dome du Gouter. Here the normal route from the French side is joined so the atmosphere changes but concentration and much effort are still required for the final ascent of the impressive and slightly exposed 'Bosses Arete', a superb climax to the highest mountain in the Alps. The route of ascent is retraced back to the hut (approx 12 hours in total) for another overnight stop before descending back to the Val Veny on the morning of day 7.
- Day 8: Is thus a spare day to allow for poor weather during the critical summit period. Fine weather is required and this day allows the possibility of spending an extra day at the hut to sit out poor weather. In the event of everything going to plan - this day can be used to complete a Classic Chamonix alpine climb from the high mountain lifts of the valley.
Our first class Italian Mont Blanc course includes 7 climbing / guided days with a day off in the middle and detailed management of the itinerary, which may have to become flexible according to mountain weather & conditions.
July 21 - 27, Sunday - Friday Inclusive. 4 / 4 Places remaining (Enquiries: 2)
£1495 per person
Minimum group size 2, maximum 4. Ratio of 1 Guide to 4 clients for 3 training days and 1:2 for the 4 summit days.
What’s included in the Price?
Our courses are priced on a 'guiding only' basis which means you pay the exact cost price for all other expenses like hotels, mountain huts and lift passes. These expenses amount to about 550 euros which includes 7 nights half board accommodation in a hotel, mountain huts, lift passes and snacks & drinks during the week. You could reduce this figure considerably if you wanted to stay in a gite or camp and increase it if you want to stay in a more luxury hotel.
- 7 full days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
- Transport during the course (including tolls etc through the Mt Blanc tunnel and in to Italy)
- Course planning, hut bookings and contingency planning in the event of poor weather etc
- The Guides accomodation for the nights in the Chamonix Valley
What’s not included?
- Flights and transfer from the airport to Chamonix
- Taxi to the Valle d'Aosta from Chamonix if the Mont Blanc traverse option is taken
- Lunches, extra drinks, snacks etc during the course
- Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list below
- Valley accommodation. This course is based at the excellent Chalet Tissiers 'Ice & Orange' in Chamonix which offers pleasant half board accomodation from 46 euros per night. They only charge for the nights you are actually there and will happily store luggage when away in the mountain huts. If this is full or you would like an alternative style of accommodation please see our recommended list for places to stay in Chamonix. Camping will significantly reduce the overall cost (starting from 9 euros) and there are several good campsites in 'Les Bossons', Chamonix, very close to Ice & Orange. Try 'Camping 2 Glaciers' for starters.
- Mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guides. Allow about 50 euros per night half board accommodation. The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts and on lifts. The best way to deal with these expenses is to make a communal group 'kitty' which you contribute to and all expenses are paid out of.
More Details & Booking
For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below: