Ski Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc. The highest mountain in Western Europe and a true challenge for the dedicated ski mountaineer. A magnificent objective for those with the skills to do it. Late spring often provides the best snow conditions for a ski ascent of the mountain and we offer two 6 day courses in late April and May. This is the toughest ski course we do and is only suitable for those with high levels of fitness, ski ability and some mountaineering experience. We aim to climb the Mountain via the 'Arete Royale' on the Dome du Gouter and classic Bosses Ridge to the summit. The ski descent back to Chamonix is huge and technically interesting. A great day of skiing, but not for the faint hearted!
- Ski Mont Blanc and do some great high mountain skiing
- Enjoy 6 days of ski mountaineering based in the Chamonix Valley spending at least a couple of nights in mountain huts
- Refine ski mountaineering skills in the training period and refresh crampon and ice axe technique
- Increase speed and efficiency in techniques and transitions for the long & tough summit day
- Prepare you for further tough ski mountaineering expeditions
- Pre Course. As with all our ski courses, we recommend you prepare as much as possible in advance with relevant ‘ski fit’ preparation and then arrive at least a day or two early to both warm up your ski legs & check equipment. This is especially important if you will be renting boots or skis & bindings. Please also make sure your skis are well serviced & bindings correctly adjusted.
- Day 1. Drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel and take the Punta Hellbroner lift to access the high glacier skiing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. A glacier journey including Col Freshfield and the Combe de la Vierge gives great skiing as well as the opportunity to practice glacier skiing / skinning techniques and do some mountaineering training. Return to Chamonix.
- Days 2-3. Argentiere's 'Grands Montets' lift gives easy access to high mountain and glacial terrain. After some good, steep off piste skiing we can complete one of the classic tours of the Argentiere basin, like the Col d'Argentiere. After a decent ski back down we overnight at the Argentiere Hut. An early start the next morning gives access to one of the classic ski tours of the Western Alps, the '3 Cols'. After the crossing of the famous Cols the final north facing slopes lead to Le Tour from we can hop on a bus back to Argentiere and enjoy a relaxing evening in Chamonix.
- If late season conditions and lift opening times mean this itinerary is not possible a good alternative will be taken, like skiing the Grand Paradiso or a Swiss 4000m peak.
- Days 3-6. Ascent of Mont Blanc via the Grand Mulets or Cosmiques Huts. The approach to the Mulets hut is not long (c.3.5 hours) but it is still important to get an early start due to the steep and crevassed nature of the terrain. Next morning a very early breakfast is taken (around 1am) to ensure the full descent is made before the heat of the afternoon affects the snow too much. The first few hours are in the dark, at first skinning; zig-zagging up with many kick turns. At the base of the Arete Royale skis are placed securely on the rucksacks; crampons on boots and ice axes in hand. Then we start the steep and sustained ascent of the North Ridge of the Dome du Gouter. Dawn arrives somewhere around the top of this leaving a beautiful pink alpenglow for a rare 'mellow' section across to the Col du Dome.
- From here the ascent route of the Bosses Ridge can be seen and the possible descent route of the North Face too. A decision is made about whether to carry skis on from here or leave them and ski from the Col du Dome on the way down. Either way the descent is quite something! Serious, but brilliant! You need to have full control of your ski legs as there is steep and crevassed ground to negotiate. There are also some very large seracs (ice cliffs) to ski under which presents an objective hazard and the need for cool, calm and collected skiing. Whilst height is lost quickly the descent is long and calls for numerous efficient transitions on the way down.
- If all goes well the sum of the parts is a big and rewarding days skiing which will be imprinted on your memory for ever. Descending all the way to Chamonix on day 5 means there is a spare day which can be spent doing another classic ski tour or possibly just relaxing and celebrating the ascent. However this final day also provides a contingency summit day in the event of poor weather.
Fitness, Ski & Mountaineering Skills Required
- Strong, confident and technically competent skier able to deal with variable off-piste snow conditions on slopes up to 35 degrees on the normal route and 45 degrees on the north face. An ability to maneuver skis around crevasses with precision and ski swiftly yet with control under seracs. An ability to do all this after a long, tough and tiring ascent at altitude.
- A high level of fitness, stamina and mental toughness is required for the c. 10-12 hour summit day as well as good organisation of equipment and efficient transitions with your ski gear whilst on the mountain.
- Some mountaineering experience is required and whilst this does not need to be on steep and difficult ground you should have some cramponing experience; a head for heights and the ability to concentrate and climb carefully on steep snow for around 1.5 hours between breaks.
I had a fabulous time climbing and ski touring Mont Blanc this past May with High Mountain Guides . We planned a 5 day trip in which the first 2 were for preparing for ski touring and the snow conditions on Mt Blanc. HMG are top notch ! very knowledgeable with extensive experienced on the mountain . I was in excellent hands all the way through . I highly recommend HMG : Don't cut corners and use the right outfitter . I am one to know...
Francois, Mount Everest climber and Seven summiteer ! + Mont Blanc !!
6 days , Monday - Saturday Inclusive. 4 / 4 Places Available (Enquiries: 2)
Minimum group size 2, maximum 8. Ratio of 1 Guide to 4 clients for 3 training days and 1:2 for the 3 summit days.
What’s included in the Price?
- 6 full days ski & mountaineering guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
- Loan of transceiver, shovel & probe
- Transport during the course
What’s not included?
- Valley accommodation. We recommend that you stay at the Hotel Chaumiere in Chamonix. If this is full or you would like an alternative style of accommodation please see our recommended list for places to stay in Chamonix.
- Mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guides. Allow about 50 euros per night half board accommodation and about 40 euros per day for lift passes. The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts and on lifts (most Chamonix based guides have a season pass). Often the base way to deal with these expenses is to make a communal group 'kitty'.
- Flights and transfer from the airport to Chamonix.
- Food and drink during the course
- Ski equipment. Check the kit list below
- A ski mountaineering equipment list is given below. Please note that you will need all the gear listed under sections: personal gear, steep & glacial terrain and hut based touring. You will also need a warm insulated jacket (ideally with a hood and big enough to go over your outer shell layer and harness). Pay particular attention to having good quality warm gloves (thin pair and thick pair) and a face mask.
- Mountain weather and snow conditions are highly variable and particularly so on Mont Blanc. Because of the demanding nature of the terrain on this ascent it is imperative to have good weather (good visibility and low winds) as well as stable snow conditions. The demands of steep, high altitude skiing, crevasses, seracs and variable snow present enough of a challenge without throwing bad weather in to the mix. This course is designed to give the maximum opportunity to summit with a 3 day training period and 3 day summit period. However if, at the time, the guides deem the ascent to be unsafe due to either weather, snow conditions or your own ability an alternative itinerary will be proposed. This decision is binding, non-negotiable and essential to maintain reasonable margins of safety.
For more details on our terms & conditions, to fill in a booking form and make a payment, please visit our booking page via the link below:
We are always delighted to hear from past, current and future clients so whether you have a booking enquiry, want a conditions report, or some mountaineering advice please do get in touch to discuss your plans...
Good climbing & skiing,
High Mountain Guides
Tel: +44 115 888 2994
Skype: High Mountain Guides
Email: Please use the form below
Some Reports from 2011 Mont Blanc Ski Summits
After two fine ski ascents of Mont Blanc in April and May the summer season kicked off in earnest during the first week of June. Heavy afternoon thunder storms had left fresh snow down to the Tette Rousse at 3167m and a determined approach was required yesterday morning to set off in further cloudy and snowy weather to maximise the forecast improving period of weather.
The arrival at t... more>
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If you have skied on Mont Blanc recently please add any relevant comments on snow & ski conditions via the 'New comment' button at the base of the page: