We were not sure whether it was an Italian bank holiday weekend but the Skyway was the busiest we had ever seen it, with many teams doing the classic holiday season walking the dog on the glacier in trainers trick! The last weekend of the season however at Rifugio Torino was all together a different scene. There were only a few teams in the hut and we had the climb of the Dent du Geant to ourselves!
Fortunately an Italian team had put a track across the glacier and up the approach slopes the day before, which we were able to benefit from after our pre-dawn start at Torino.
Setting off up the ‘gum’ of the tooth. The classic snow couloir was not complete so we took the route on the rocks left of it. Dawn breaks on the SE face of Monte Bianco beyond.
Conditions on the approach slopes (the gum of the tooth!) were good and snowy and the climb itself was dry and rocky with just a little snow patch to cross easily at the base of the slabs. Although the air temperatures were autumnal in the shade, there was no wind, no queues and we kept warm by keeping climbing!
Good snowy conditions on the approach and good dry rocky conditions on the tooth itself.
Climbers sometimes correct non climbers who think they actually climb the ropes…but ‘self hauling’ on fixed ropes can be an alpinists guilty pleasure on various peaks like the Eiger, Matterhorn and here on the Giants Tooth!
Rami self hauling! On the fixed ropes of the Dent du Geant
The initial steep section of the climb actually has more climbing style rope than the thicker ropes fixed higher on the climb, and these are even more strenuous to pull on as they are quite thin! But there are plenty of bolts and anchors on this and indeed the whole of the climb, so it’s all pretty well protected and the swinging around in such a spectacular setting can be enjoyed to the max!
The top of the ‘free climbing corner!’ Where there are no fixed ropes for a while – what, we have to climb on the rock!?
There are a few sections of the climb which don’t have fixed ropes and it’s worth taking some trad gear, mainly medium sized cams, to protect these. It was a treat to have a break on the summit of the tooth itself with just the Madonna (who has obviously seen her fair share of lightening strikes) for company, stunning panoramic Alps wide views and no wind.
Rob & Rami on the summit of the Dent du Geant with Monte Bianco beyond.
The abseil descent from the Dent du Geant is maybe even more spectacular than the climb itself. It’s an impressively exposed face but has an equally impressive series of very well equipped anchors leading in 6 abseils back to the base of the tooth. Not only are they fully chained sport climbing style anchors but they each have a metal plate next to them indicating the distance and rough direction to the next one. Handy!
The last of 6 abseils to the base of the Dent du Geant. All equipped with fully chained sport climbing style anchors and a metal plate with the distance and rough direction of that abseil. Luxury!
The ascent of the Dent du Geant is a great climb in its own right and fine training for future Matterhorn and Eiger ascents, although some would say that might be the other way around. It’s a climbers peak for those with a good head for heights and a bit of upper body strength too. Worth noting that there is now a fun ‘Mini Dent’ fixed rope climb on the nearby Aiguilles Marbrees. This is very rapidly accessed from the Skyway lift or Torino Hut and provides a fun, interesting and highly relevant training climb for those wanting to climb the Dent itself…or other similar peaks, and we are happy to arrange guiding on all of these so get training and get in touch for more details….
Rami on the summit of the Dent with the huge wild Italian southern side of Monte Bianco beyond.