The North Ridge of the Piz Badile, like the South Ridge of the Salbitschijen, is one of those remarkable routes that unites a soaring high mountain ridge with brilliant sustained rock climbing. When combined with a physical journey traversing from north to south, Switzerland to Italy, this makes for an extremely rewarding day in the mountains…
Lovely granite rock climbing in a stunning setting. The north ridge is a striking feature consisting of pitch after pitch of good steady climbing.
For the summer of 2026 there is now a new path approaching the Sasc Fura Hut, which makes for a much more efficient ascent thanks to the new footbridge above Parking No.1 in the forest above Bondo.
Crossing the new foot bridge above the parking in the forest above Bondo. Piz Badile & its North Ridge clearly visible beyond.
The guide book time of 3.5 hours seems like a rather sedately pace and 2.5 wasn’t exactly pushing it. This leaves plenty of time to enjoy the alpine meadow ambiance with great views up to the Badile from Sasc Fura.
The lovely base camp at Sasc Fura. At 1904m the hut is not even above the tree line but it’s a great setting with inspiring views to the Badile North Face & the soaring line of the north ridge.
A moonless but starlit night, a light breeze and a few other bobbling head lamps accompanied us as we made the steady but physical ascent to the approach col at the base of the north ridge. From here it’s worth taking a moment to locate the correct line, out on the left of the main ridge and a few occasional bolts and ‘door knocker’ anchors will confirm the line.
Dawn arrives on the lower traverse on to the north ridge itself.
To re-gain the crest some pitches of 3 and 4 need to be negotiated and the scene is set for lots of sustained climbing to come. Never too difficult or technical but demanding both plenty of attention and enjoyment!
Pitch of 4 leading back to the ridge crest with the north face beyond.
Teams were also enjoying the good dry conditions on the Cassin Route on the NE face of the Badile on this last day of the long spell of hot and dry weather. Plenty of rain now forecast for the next couple of days!
Sun arrives on teams on the Cassin route on the NE face and the N Ridge. Pizzo Cengalo on the left.
To the appreciator of alpine rock, the north ridge is the gift that keeps on giving. Long and sustained yet also varied and elegant in weaving a line through the various features encountered along the journey up the north ridge and on to the fine summit of Piz Badile 3305m.
Ridges, slabs, cracks, walls. This route has the lot!
Exposed but easy ridge section on the north ridge.
Lovely cracked wall climbing with the odd peg, occasional bolt and plenty of opportunities to place cams.
After the junction with the Cassin Route, the North Ridge lies back in angle but maintains interest with high quality scrambling, the occasional harder move and a couple of very short down climbs.
Dave enjoying a corner crack leading back to the crest high on the north ridge close to the junction with the Cassin Route.
Having climbed the north ridge and enjoying a celebratory summit sandwich the matter of the descent is the next thing on the agenda. Other alternatives exist but our choice, and definitely recommended, is the descent of the South Face down to Rifugio Gianetti.
The descent of the South Face of Piz Badile is logical, quite enjoyable and swift if the right line is taken and abseils processed efficiently.
The is a mix of walking, scrambling and abseiling on this route and progress is rapid on the right line all the way down to the boulders leading to the meadows & Rifugio Gianetti 25434m.
We came down there? Where!? It would be good to come back and climb on the South side of the range here from a base camp at Gianetti Allievi / Val Masino / Val di Mello!
After Panini, café and Lemonsoda at Gianetti the meadows and boulders theme continues with the descent of the beautiful Valle Porcellizzo and it’s sparkling river, inviting pools and giant boulders.
The beautiful Valle Porcellizzo with it’s lovely river and pools leading down…and down further…in Val Masino
There is another panini pit stop at Val Masino from where either public transport or a taxi can take you back to Bondo, or, better still…go climbing in the nearby Val di Mello!
Lovely paths descending from Gianetti with great views back to Badile, Cengalo and other inspiring peaks and routes for a future trip starting on this southern side.
If you would like a guided ascent of the North Ridge or Cassin Route on Piz Badile, then please get in touch. We also offer rock climbing the Chamonix Valley and surrounding areas we would be happy to help.
Ceck out our Rock Climbing in Chamonix page below for lots of inspiration regarding venues, photo galleries and an up to date conditions info / trip report section.
