22 June 2017, Continuing Hot Alpine Weather Conditions Update

Decent conditions for the ascent of the Lagginhorn this morning and our Weissmies course team also completed this mountain in style for their second 4000m peak in 2 days. Our other team on the Weissmies this morning reversed the South Ridge from the summit and descended back via the Almageller Hut. Reasonable conditions reported on the ascent to the ‘first Dome’ on the Miage but icy conditions reported for the whole traverse.

Tim traversed the Aiguille du Chardonnet today via the Forbes Arete and reported reasonable conditions on that (albeit with the need to place a couple of ice screws on the traverse) but also described the top slopes of the descent as ‘very serious’.

Teams are climbing the easy classics of this Swiss / French Alpine frontier area between the Albert Premier and Trient huts, but extra care is required on this and all glaciers at the moment due to some major crevasses lurking beneath delicate snow bridges.

On Mont Blanc, the Prefet de la Haute Savoie have issued a Press Statement calling for Vigilance from alpinists in light of the heightened stone fall risk early this summer season, especially in the Grand Couloir on Mont Blanc and also to take great care with large crevasses and narrow snow bridges as a result of the hot early season weather.

Our Gran Paradiso team all made the summit early this morning in good style via the glacier from the Rifugio Chabod and then traversing to Vittorio Emanuelle and down to Pont. Snow conditions were ok in the track and there was a refreeze high on the mountain but soft snow outside the track lower down the route.