23 August 2017, Matterhorn Conditions Improving & 2 Teams To Summit Today

The continuing warm and sunny weather saw plenty of teams enjoying less snowy conditions than in recent days and we were delighted to make the summit with Helen & Sarah who, along with Matt a few weeks ago, all attended our May Matterhorn training weekend in Snowdonia and have now all successfully summited. Well done team!

The warm & dry weather has stripped the snow from most of the Grand Couloir / Gouter Hut approach on Mont Blanc but it’s not been super hot and the couloir was fairly quiet when the team crossed yesterday, except for some human triggered rock fall!

On our Gran Paradiso course Jonny & team did some good glacier treks and mountaineering training from the Rifugio Torino and went round to the Cols Rochefort and Entreves. Plenty of crevasses on the glaciers but good tracks also in place and cool overnight conditions helping with snow conditions in the morning.

Snow conditions were also reasonable on the traverse of the Gran Paradiso which they all summited yesterday from the Chabod Hut. Again, big holes on the glacier but a decent track and way through, plus some fresh snow and big foot holds in the track on the steeper icy sections.

Our Monte Rosa team are now heading to the Mantova Hut above Gressoney having climbed the Tete Blanche via an overnight stay in the Albert Premier Hut. Conditions were not good for the Aiguille du Tour with icy approach slopes on the summit and Col Sup du Tour so the team diverted to the Tete Blanche and had a good acclimatisation and training climb there. Snow conditions reported to be slightly better high on the Monte Rosa and Castor, Pollux area. Still well crevassed glaciers but it’s now in to late summer after a hot season, so it’s not surprising. More details to follow on the ascent to Signalkuppe / Zumsteinspitze etc at the end of the week.

25th August Update

Congratulations to our Monte Rosa Mountaineer team who have just returned from a 3 day trip in the upper Gressoney Valley having climbed the Zumsteinspitze / Signalkuppe and Pyramid Vinson with overnight stays at the Mantova and Gnifetti Huts and a high altitude coffee visit to the remarkably high Margherita Hut, 4554m

At 4554m the Margherita Hut is the highest hut in the Alps and highest building in W. Europe. The coffee is still excellent of course as it’s an Italian Hut. Here our Monte Rosa Mountaineer team enjoy the summit view having also just visited the nearby Zumsteinspitze