Even within the high bar context of the Mont Blanc Massif, the Petit Clocher du Portalet (2823m) is a striking summit and inspiring objective. This is no trekking peak! Most of the routes to the summit involve hard and sustained granite crack climbing and even the ‘Voie Normale’ features intricate and exposed walking, scrambling, rock climbing & abseiling. So just reaching the summit demands plenty of skills and attention, but the rewards are high too…
This is a magic place and, using the nearby Orny Hut as a lovely base camp, climbing the Clocher gave us a great 2 day alpine rock trip exploring this far north eastern and Swiss part of the Mont Blanc Massif.
The Petit Clocher de Portalet, left, is an inspiring alpine rock objective, with an interesting approach, especially to the West Ridge (right hand skyline)
The stunning east face of the Clocher with the route ‘Esprit de Clocher’ climbing the cracks left of the obvious chimney.
Even the approach to the Clocher feels a bit ‘more’ than many middle mountain rock venues…
The ‘Mauvais Pas’ on the approach to the South Face, with numerous bolts to protect a slippy and very exposed but easy narrow ledge.
There is the crossing of the river coming down from the Orny Glacier, the traverse of various boulder fields, a fixed rope to descend a moraine slope, and, for our chosen route up the south face and west ridge, a well bolted slippery slopey ledge and some quite enjoyable but exposed scrambling.
Dave on the pleasant belay ledge at the base of the first pitch (4c) on the South Face approach to the West Ridge. The Grand Combin beyond.
After the scrambling, with numerous bolts to help show and protect the way, the climbing starts with a fun short cracked wall (4c) and this leads logically up through the south face via a series of short bolted slabs and pleasant grassy ledges.
A great position on the South Face with a mix of grassy ledges and fine granite slabs and cracks. Set against the high alpine background.
There is also the option to climb ‘Nouvelle ère’ up through the south face which has several 6a and 5c pitches leading to the same place at the start of the traverse of the west ridge to the summit.
The exposure kicks in on reaching the West Ridge with quality climbing initially on the South Face side then right on the crest itself in a magnificent position.
Suddenly the West Ridge is reached and the exposure is doubled from both sides! The position is magnificent with quality Mont Blanc Massif granite to match.
Dave tackling the brilliant thin 6a arete and slab on the West Ridge
As per the previous easier pitches, trad gear is required where there are cracks and bolts protect the blanker sections. The bolts are appreciated on the engaging thin arete and slab climbing that provides the crux 6a passage up this smooth section of the West Ridge near the summit.
Dave with the elegant Madonna on the summit of the Petit Clocher du Portalet with the Orny Hut on the sunny slopes beyond.
We met a Swiss team on the summit who had climbed the East Face and were starting the descent of the North Face whereas we had climbed the west ridge and were setting off on the 5 abseils leading back down the south face.
Lovely smooth clean granite walls abseiling down Chic Chèque Choc
The first anchor is right on the summit and the subsequent ones on the route Chic Cheque Choc gave a rapid and efficient descent back to the base of the south face before reversing the ‘Mauvais Pas’ and scrambling approach under the East and north faces.
Returning to the Orny Hut path after an ascent of the Clocher.
After the intricacies of the technical descent a relaxed evening stroll took us up to the lovely Cabane d’Orny where a hospitable welcome, good food and a game of darts completed a fine day of alpine rock climbing.
High alpine ambiance on the sunny early evening stroll up to the lovely Orny Hut after climbing the Clocher du Portalet.
There are plenty of other options for enjoying the quality granite rock climbing on the crags and peaks around the hut but after a good week of packing in the alpine rock we were happy to have a relaxed breakfast next morning and enjoy some single pitch climbing in the marmotte meadows on the way back down to the Breya chairlift providing the descent to Champex-Lac.
The north face of the Petit Clocher du Portalet with the west ridge on the right hand skyline.
If you would like a guided ascent of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, then please get in touch. This week we combined this ascent with the North Ridge of the Piz Badile and a day climbing the Chamonix classics Frison Roche and Crakoukass.
Check out details of both routes below and on our Rock Climbing in Chamonix page.
