Between the Swiss Val Bregaglia and the Italian Val di Mello lies an inspiring chain of jagged granite peaks. Centre stage is taken by the beautiful soaring north face of the Piz Badile, one of the six classic north faces of the Alps. This striking shovel head of a wall has a very good alpine rock climb up it’s right bounding edge, the north ridge. But it was the ascent of the face itself, by Ricardo Cassin and team in July 1937, with a masterpiece of route finding, that created a route which would inspire climbers around the world, for generations to come…
Simon approaching the north east face of Piz Badile above Sasc Fura Hut. The Cassin route takes the sunny slabs and walls just left of his head with the famous north ridge just to the right.Our plans to climb the face had
As some of those inspired climbers, our plans to climb the Cassin Route were hatched on a previous trip rock climbing in Chamonix and were centred around a late summer ascent when the approach ledges would be largely snow free and the face itself predominantly dry. This also gave plenty of time over the spring and summer to put lots of rock climbing in to the training bank!
Nestled in the upper forest at a relatively lowly 1900m the Sasc Fura hut provides a lovely base camp for climbs on the north side of the Piz Badile. Including the North Ridge – centre right where sun and shade meet and the Cassin in the sun to it’s left. Photo Simon Everett
Things were looking good for our 5 day trip to the Bregaglia until a big storm started manoeuvring it’s arrival to coincide with our summit day! The trip was hastily brought forward and the granite warm up climbs around the inspiring Albigna dam area were postponed for a more direct ascent to the Sasc Fura Hut. After a late arrival at the hut, we were happy to have a late breakfast and relaxed day to recce the approach to the route and soak up the ambiance of the place.
Simon descending from the tiny col on the north ridge to access the base of the NE face and traverse the obvious ledge below to reach the base of the Cassin Route. The fine groove of the Rebuffat start is visible as the leftmost of the 3 grooves in the upper centre of the photo.
The original start to the Cassin, 5c+ with a few steep moves to start the face
The pleasant lower approach to the north ridge of Piz Badile. This becomes more scrambly higher up leading in to the col which provides access to both the north ridge and the Cassin Route.
We climbed the lovely layback corner of the Rebuffat variation to get going on the face which is a bit easier than the original direct start a little further left along the ledge. The climbing above that is pleasant and easy for a couple of pitches and there was a good ambiance sharing the route with several other friendly British teams and one faster American team!
The Rebuffat alternative to start the Cassin route. A lovely 5a layback crack with good holds and gear.
The harder climbing begins on the 4th pitch, 5c+, with an intricate rising leftward traverse in a fine exposed position and protected by cams and old pegs.
The intricate 4th pitch, 5c+ providing sustained climbing up a rising leftwards traverse.
Above that the climbing is a bit easier all the way to the big central ledge, but the route finding requires attention here and we found the CamptoCamp topo to be really good.
The sunny morning slabs and groove of the 5th pitch, 5b
Above the big central ledge, the face rears up in an impressively clean sweep of steep rock leading all the way to the summit ridge via a system of flakes & chimneys, but first, the crux. A steep and sustained corner leading towards, but crucially not up into, the huge striking number 7 shaped flake and roof seen in the photo below.
The crux 9th pitch, 6a, starting up the steep corner before stepping out of it on to the wall on the right.
An exposed step right out of the corner is required after about 20+ metres but before several decent looking pitons in the corner above. The reward for this departure from the corner is easier climbing up a wall / ramp feature to a bolt belay and this, like the next two fine steep pitches and most of the pitches on the Cassin, is full value at about 45-50m long.
The start of the fine upper crack chimney system with the striking north west pillar of Cengalo beyond.
As you climb the Cassin route, the impressive barrel buttress of the North West Pillar of Cengalo is a constant companion to the east. It’s a slightly easier route but bigger, with a much wilder feel and less in-situ kit. Well there was when we climbed it in the early 2000s anyway! On that occasion we had come to climb the Cassin but it was running with water. We’d climbed the NW pillar on the Cengalo instead and returned to the bivi via a long walk from the Gianetti Hut. The face was still wet so we climbed the north ridge and came back round again. The Cassin was still wet (or we had run out of steam!) so we went to Chamonix!
The soaring chimney line splitting the upper face gives obvious route finding but still a question over how to climb it!
The theme of long pitches continues in to the striking chimney system above, but the style of climbing changes to…well, take your pick, jamming, bridging, back and footing. We opted for the latter which gives a steady, sustained and bold series of grunts to reach the welcome and cool terrace above.
Back and footing being one option for climbing the chimney! Others experimented with bridging and jamming!
After a break on the best ledge of the route so far the chimney above appears a lot steeper, but conveniently has actual holds!
Atmospheric rock architecture and great climbing up this steep and well protected 5b 15th pitch towards the top of the chimney.
Once you have been released from the chimney, the remaining pitches 3 are easier, but are by no means a romp. Steady and sustained climbing continues with a section on creaky flakes and a bold section up the quartzy wall, all the way to the last 18th pitch to reach the north ridge.
The fine & steady but bold quartz wall 17th pitch, 5a
Reaching the north ridge on the last moves of the Cassin Route.
The junction of the Cassin Route with the North Ridge is a milestone on the ascent but there still remains some good easier climbing up the last few pitches along the crest to reach the summit of Piz Badile at 3309m.
High on the north ridge of Piz Badile. A lot of climbing done, plenty of descending still to do!
Rob & Simon on the summit of Piz / Pizzo Badile on the Swiss Italian border. Well done Simon on climbing the Cassin!
Even apart from the 20+ pitches, there is an undeniable physicality to the day climbing the Cassin, topping out on the summit of the Badile and descending to the Italian side. It’s a solid 2 hours walk with some exposed scrambling to get to the route and more on the descent. Concentration is required for the route finding and multiple abseils on the descent and whilst, in these conditions, all this was done in trainers, rock boots and with a fairly light pack, there are similar demands to a big day of alpine mountaineering in the higher mountains. So it’s really worth trying to stay well fuelled and hydrated over a big demanding day. If you want some specific advice on this we would recommend getting in touch with sports nutritionalist Rebecca Dent.
The south facing descent of Pizzo Badile on the Italian side. The abseil route from the metal cross in the picture is down the steep chimney to the right. From there a very short scramble leads to another couple of abseils and the rocky slopes / bits of path leading down to Gianetti.
South side of Pizzo Badile from the route down to Gianetti
We weren’t trying to break any speed records but were happy not to be staying in the summit ‘hotel’ (emergency shelter!) and plugged away steadily at the descent with the clouds swirling around us and were only a bit late for dinner at the friendly Rifugio Gianetti.
Rifugio Gianetti 2534m and base camp for exploring the stunning granite on the south side of Pizzo Badile and Cengalo.
This southern Italian continuation of the journey seems far preferable to the abseil descent of the north ridge which some teams opt for. Concentration is still required but the hut provides a welcome stopping off point to enjoy the great views of the southern side of the massif. Plus the continuation down in to the Valle del Bagni next morning gives an idyllic descent in which to appreciate this journey through the Bregaglia and reflect on a satisfying big route.
The lovely walk down to the Valle del Bagni and continuation in to the famous rock climbing area of Val di Mello beyond. Granite country!
Well done & congratulations to our guest Simon on climbing the Cassin and, moreover getting all the climbing and training done to prepare for the ascent.
The climbing on the Cassin route is mainly around the UK grades of Severe to HVS and E1 for the crux pitch. But there is a lot of it! Plus there is an altitude factor with a summit just over 3000m and a highly physical factor with all the walking and scrambling. If you’re interested in doing some training for a future ascent of this route, please get in touch and we can discuss a programme for guiding, training and rock climbing.
Good climbing & good training, Rob
Lovely paths descending from Gianetti with great views back to Badile, Cengalo and other inspiring peaks and routes for a future trip starting on this southern side.