An ascent of Mont Blanc is always big and always special. A late spring traverse of the mountain via the Grands Mulets Hut and North Ridge of the Dome de Gouter added an extra zest of challenge. Our approach took us through the wonderful Chamonix alpine meadows and up in to glacial scenery that felt more Himalayan than alpine in scale.
Hiking in to the Grands Mulets Hut from the Plan de l’Aiguille with the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi above. Chamonix Valley. Photo Ally Swinton.
On seeing the scale of the huge glittering glaciers flowing down this northern side of Mont Blanc our guest Keith spontaneously said “There is nowhere else I’d rather be at this moment”. We could only agree. It’s a stunning glacier journey just getting to the hut!
The meadow and glacier journey leading to the Grands Mulets Hut, with the magnificent North side of Mont Blanc beyond and out intended route, the North Ridge of Dome du Gouter upper right. Photo Ally Swinton.
Late spring conditions were good and, despite the lack of an existing boot track, we made steady progress across to the Bossons glacier and through the complicated ‘Jonction’ section to reach the steady climb up to the hut awaiting on the far side.
Stunning glacier architecture en route to the Grands Mulets Hut
The ‘Jonction’ glacier and route up to the Grands Mulets Hut. Photo – from the air – Ally Swinton
Thanks to the Grands Mulets hut team for providing a hospitable welcome and great base camp in a remarkable position.
The Grands Mulets Hut. A remarkable position and a hospitable welcome.
After the intense evening hailstorms, the heavy clouds dispersed and a clear night meant for a decent re-freeze and good going on the glacier approach to the North Ridge before dawn the next morning.
Pre dawn departure from the Grands Mulets Hut en route to the North Ridge of Dome du Gouter. Aiguille du Midi beyond towering above the Chamonix Valley.
Dawn arrives on the north ridge of the Dome sharing the climb with teams aiming to make the ski descent of Mont Blanc.
Dawn arrived on the north ridge and despite all other teams having skis, there was a good boot track as the skiers were now also booting!
Starting the steeper section of the North Ridge with Mont Maudit beyond.
The striking curving crescent moon line of the north ridge of the Dome, or ‘Arete Royale’ as it prefers to be called, is well seen from Chamonix and is often wind scoured and icy. This was the case for our April ski Mont Blanc teams but we were lucky that the big sticky snow storms in May had plastered the long icy section back to snow.
Starting the icy pitch at the top of the narrow section of north ridge. Chamonix in the shade nearly 3000m below.
There still remains about 20m of icy at the top of the ridge and this pitch was negotiated steadily with 1 mountaineering axe and sharp crampons.
The steeper icy section on the North Ridge.
Beyond the ice pitch the angle eases but there is that increasing sense we always get when gaining height on Mont Blanc. This. Is a BIG Mountain!
High on the North Ridge of the Dome du Gouter with a view across to the Bosses summit ridge on Mont Blanc. A BIG mountain!
The 4000m contour is crossed as the top of the north ridge is reached and a glacier traverse with pristine snow slopes leads to the Col du Dome and up to the Vallot Hut. With five hours of climbing already done, the effort is now kicking in!
Trucking on up the North Ridge of the Dome. Next stop, the Vallot Hut.
Harry and Kim arrive at the Vallot emergency shelter, 4351m. Already very high, still a long way to go!
Conditions on the Bosses Arete were good and the steep climbing at least means height is gained quite rapidly.
There is a quite icy 30m slope leading to the ‘Mauvaise Arete’ and this has a large wooden stake at the top of it.
The Bosses Arete, The long summit ridge from Vallot to the summit of Mont Blanc.
Reaching the start of the final, near horizontal, section of summit ridge often triggers an emotional moment. The effort is going to ease. The summit, is going to be reached….
On the summit of Mont Blanc.
We descended via a high altitude night at the Gouter Hut winter room, which is in the annex of the old hut, which is in the process of being removed from the mountain.
The famous new Gouter Hut on Mont Blanc
Good effort to the team of St. Gervais guides who were trying to remove the ice from around the old hut so the extraction process can then begin. It’s not a small task!
Ice removal from around the old Gouter Hut.
The old Gouter Hut is being removed from the mountain this summer…once it’s been removed from the glacier!
The descent of the Gouter Ridge next morning was made in surprisingly dry conditions for the end of May.
Descending the Gouter Ridge to the Grand Couloir and Tete Rousse Hut
There is some stiff snow just under the old Gouter Hut but much of the central ridge section was pretty dry and we climbed it without crampons before putting them back on at the little col before the shoulder and final snow slopes leading down and across the Grand Couloir.
The crossing of the Grand Couloir. Always a tense moment! Dry conditions for the end of May.
After a welcome breakfast pit-stop at the Tete Rousse Hut we made the efficient early season snow descent near the Bionassay glacier down to the Nid d’Aigle.
Scenic descent under the Aiguille du Bionassay down to Nid d’Aigle
And onwards and downwards via the Tramway tracks and lovely final traverse of Mont Lachat with great views up the Chamonix Valley.
Ally styling the descent of the Tramway tracks
The lovely final path leading back to Bellevue on the traverse below Mont Lachat
Well done & thanks to our Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc team, guests and guides, on making this a really memorable adventure and journey in the high mountains.
Gran Paradiso & Mont Blanc team heading back to the Chamonix Valley after an action packed few days in the high mountains.
*We still have 3 – discounted – spaces available on our 3 day Gran Paradiso & intro alpine mountaineering course this week*
Running in Chamonix on the 3-5 June 2026, details and booking here:
Plus one space available on our Climb The Weissmies Course 5-7 July:
Harry high on the Dome du Gouter / Mont Blanc with the Aiguille du Bionassay beyond.