8th August 2016, Excellent Alpine Mountaineering Conditions In The Bernese Oberland

The storm which battered the northern Alps on Friday deposited around 40cms fresh snow in the high Bernese Oberland with a rain snow limit of c.2800m. The mountains were out of condition in the gloomy and snowy conditions on Saturday but plenty of teams were out enjoying the sunny & snowy conditions on Sunday. We climbed the Fiescherhorn via its excellent NW ridge (AD-). Very good snow conditions on both the glacial approach and ridge itself with virtually no ice exposed on the steep pitch near the summit.

Many teams climbed the Monch via the normal route as well as descending the W ridge down towards The Jungfraujoch station. Another team broke trail form Monchjoch round to the East face and made God progress up the climbers right hand side of that to join the N ridge. It also looked from Kleine Scheidegg that there was a track leading to the Nollen on the North Face.

The Jungfrau normal route is tracked and in excellent condition with very little exposed ice. We climbed the route today in quick time thanks to the dry rock and good refrozen snow conditions. New track were also seen high on the massive whaleback summit of the Aletchhorn and on the normal route on the Finsteraarhorn.

The Eiger looks quite snowy still and is getting a lot less ascents than in the dry conditions of last year. Judging by the tracks and number of teams in the hut, it looked like only 1 team climbed the mountain yesterday, making the traverse from Mittellegi to Monchsjoch.