Mountain Guide Lou Reynolds takes us on an informative and inspiring tour of the ‘softer’ rock options that the Capital of world climbing has to offer…
I distinctly remember my first visit to Chamonix one summer many years ago. As we meandered through the valley to Argentière, I was struck by the sheer magnitude of the mountains rising so suddenly from the valley floor. I knew these rocks and mountains were steeped in history and beckoning with adventure, I couldn’t wait to get stuck in and cut my teeth on some Chamonix classic rock routes…
Abseiling down the south face after an ascent of the Grand Capucin. Stunning, but intimidating and whist Chamonix does indeed have spectacular soaring high altitude granite routes above glittering glaciers, this article focuses on the more accessible valley and middle mountain rock climbing…
The Chamonix valley has captured the imagination of many people, from artists, such as Sir William Turner, first visiting Chamonix in the 1800’s to paint some dramatic scenes of the Mer de Glace, alongside Botanists, climbers and alpinists of this era who discovered this rural mountain valley and the wild secrets of the mountains yet to be unlocked. Like Windham and Pococke, two Englishmen who stumbled across the ‘Chamouny’ valley and its rural community living off the land. The stories of their exploits and visits to places such as the Mer de Glace started a craze to find out more about Chamonix. In 1786 two local men, Balmat and Pacard made the first ascent of Mont Blanc which really put Chamonix on the map and continued a growing craze for alpine climbing and first ascents which continues to this day.
The Mer de Glace and lower Vallee Blanche run seen from the train station at Montenvers.
Back in the 1700’s we would have found only a smattering of mountain farm steads along the winding valley river which is hard to imagine today where expensive shops line the high street, helicopters whir overhead and it is common place to see alpinists returning from the mountains on fast moving cable cars strewn with the latest brightly coloured light weight kit checking their phones for tomorrows weather whilst scouring the pages of the latest guide book.
Although the access to the mountains and equipment we use has changed drastically, along with the glaciers and some of the high alpine peaks, most of the rock and routes remain unchanged apart from a few shiny bolts and a bit more traffic. We can still experience the remote nature of some of the less frequented crags and we must still navigate with caution, the abrupt afternoon storms that beat a regular rhythm in the summer mountains. Climbing in the Mont-Blanc massif and the Chamonix Valley means compact rock, high mountains, superb granite and miles of gneiss.
In this article I will share some of my favourite Chamonix crags and mid mountain rock climbs all at amenable grades. Aiming to inspire your climbing adventures here in Chamonix. There is a selection of beautiful locations stretching the length of the valley, to quench your thirst for rock climbing in these magnificent mountains and leave you pining for more. There are many guidebooks to choose from but the Rockfax Chamonix book by Charlie Boscoe has most of the routes listed here and provides a good starting point for routes in the area. Camp to camp is a great online resource for checking access and local information or for a more detailed route description. Crags are usually equipped. Mountain routes may be partially equipped but usually have at least abseil points in place and depending on the location and conditions of that season access may require ice axe and crampons. We also have our own recent reports and Chamonix rock climbing conditions page here.
Touching rock- Chamonix valley crags
Les Gaillands
Mountain Guides have been a strong traditional and economic power in the Chamonix valley from the 18th to early 19th century before hotels and other larger businesses took over. In 1821, La Compagnie des Guides was created following an accident on Mont Blanc and continues to be the main Guides office in Chamonix. La Compagnie des Guides developed and still maintain Chamonix valleys top climbing area, Les Gaillands.
Lead climbing training and coaching in Chamonix at the famous and friendly & accessible crag ‘Les Gaillands’
Following in the footsteps of mountain guides since the 1920’s, this crag is the first stop on your journey into the mountains. It is the perfect training ground for the high mountain environment, with its legendary walls and multipitch routes. There is something for everyone here. The Gneiss rock offers varied climbing styles, including slabs, cracks and overhangs, and the majority of routes are graded French 5+ or less with some harder test pieces off to each side of the main crag. The routes are bolted allowing top-roping and lead climbing in complete safety as well as some 2-3 pitch routes to practise your stance management and abseil descent. Set in an Idyllic location with the Mont Blanc massif soaring in the background, only one minute approach and nestled in a field with forest and lake surrounding, it is the perfect location for the whole family.
L’Arete Integrale. The lovely soaring ridge on the left side of Les Gaillands, with a short tricky section which can be by-passed by going right around the arete and then re-joining higher up. Great positions either way.
There is a small café close by which offers snacks and refreshments in the shade. It can be hot in mid summer as it faces due south, at this time of year I would recommend an afternoon session followed by a BBQ in the field with friends.
Servoz Crag
Servoz crag is another great valley rock climbing destination. It can be reached by car, train or bus to Servoz. It offers climbing between the grades of 4+ and 6b with some steeper juggy routes in the upper part of the crag to get the forearms burning.
Leeanne lowering off the fine steep F5b on the far left of the crag at Servoz. A good venue for showery – and cloudy summer afternoons!
You can climb single pitches or to reach the top of the crag you will need to break the routes into 2 pitches. All routes are bolted with chains at the anchors for rappelling back down. The crag is roadside and has some shade in the morning with a café opposite for cooling refreshments and snacks.
Vallorcine Crag
If you take the train up the valley over the Col de Montet towards Switzerland, you will reach the beautiful little alpine village of Vallorcine, meaning ‘Valley of the bears’. There is a slabby crag here with a variety of routes mostly in the 4’s – 6a range and single pitch or multipitch up to four pitches. The granite slabs descend into beautiful grassy alpine flower meadows and scattered larch forest.
In the morning you can climb here in the shade and the higher altitude can bring some relief from mid-summer heat. It is a victim of its own success but there are 20 or more routes to spread out across and an early start will ensure you have both the shade and the choice of routes.
Le Brevent
For the crème de la creme of single pitch rock climbing and to catch a breeze and cool off in mid-summer, I would take a ride up the Le Brevent cable car to take in the breath taking 360 mountain view displaying the Mont Blanc massif, Aiguille rouges, Chene des Aravis and Chene des Fiz.
Rock climbing, short walks, long walks, superb sight seeing & café action whilst acclimatising…welcome to Le Brevent! Rob & Jenny Jarvis climbing on the South Face.
Within a ten-minute walk down hill, you can be standing at the base of a beautiful wall of single pitch routes graded from 4+ to 7a on rough Gneiss. This is a climbers paradise. In early summer you may have to negotiate some snow patches to get onto the start of your climb. All climbs are bolted with chain anchors at the top. If single pitch is not enough for you, this venue offers some fantastic multi pitch routes only a stone’s throw away. More on these routes later.
Les Cheserys Slabs
If Granite slab climbing is your bag (or even if it isn’t!) then this area should be on your list. Les Cheserys and the Aiguillette d’ Argentiere are unique in the valley because they offer high quality multi-pitch bolted climbing in the heart of the mountains but without any lifts being required. A beautiful 45-minute walk in through scattered forest and alpine meadows leads you to the crag and if fortune is on your side, you may get chance to see a local Ibex, Marmot and perhaps more rarely a Chamois might bound across your path.
Walking Through The Autumn Woodland To Les Cheserys – With superb views across to the Chamonix North Faces
There are many routes sprawled along the cliff between the grades of 5b and 6a+, the most famous of them are: Un Pere Noel pour Lucy (5c) L’EMHM (5c) Voie Rouge (5b) and Voie Blanche (5c). Locating the start of your route can sometimes be the crux, so a bit of prior research and taking the time to read the names at the bottom and scour your topo, is worth the time.
High on the very good ‘Dune’ at Les Cheserys, Chamonix Valley
Despite it being a popular venue it is usually possible to traverse left or right on the crag to find your own piece of solitude and the routes are all similarly enjoyable. You can usually descend by abseil with 2x50m ropes. On some routes it is possible to top out and walk off past the lacs des Chesery back to the car, making for a satisfying mountain journey.
Aiguillette d’Argentiere
This small summit is worth a visit whatever grade you climb and offers a spectacular position on the summit to take in the scenery and snap a heroic photo, with the Mont Blanc massif in the backdrop.
The Famous Aiguillette, a fine rock climbers pinnacle above the Chamonix Valley
This pinnacle can be nicely combined with one of the longer slab climbs for an excellent day out. Specific route recommendations are: Northeast Arete Integrale, for a longer climb to the summit or the Rebuffat-Terray which is one single pitch of excellent climbing on good holds, both at grade 5c.
Summit of the Aiguillette d’Argentière.
Rocher des Mottets – Via Corda Alpina
Another great multi pitch mountain journey that doesn’t require lift access is the Via Corda Alpina (PD+ 3), Voie Caline (AD 3-) and Voie Princess (AD -4a) from Le Praz. With almost 600m of altitude difference from the start to refreshments at the bar of Les Mottets on top, you can have a reasonably long journey. It is important to note this route combines all styles of mountain movement, hiking, scrambling and climbing and it is best to practise the appropriate rope techniques for the terrain so as not to get benighted.
Matt on the lovely Via Corda des Mottets in Chamonix
You travel through woodland and incredible rock slabs that were once smoothed by the Mer de Glace whose nose would have tumbled down over these crags and into the Chamonix Valley long before humans were witness to it. Due to the slabby and forest dwelling nature of these routes I would not recommend them in the rain, they can become quite green and slippery. The routes are equipped with bolts, enough of which are on the harder sections, but you will need some slings and karabiners for extra anchors around tree’s and such like. These Via corda routes are an excellent way to practise moving efficiently together in an alpine style before putting it to the test in the high mountains.
There is also now a fine long Via Corda route starting just above the Via Ferrata at Flegere in the Aiguilles Rouges above the Chamonix Valley.
Hamish on the Flegere Via Corda in a stunning setting above the Chamonix Valley with the Mont Blanc Massif beyond. Photo thanks to Vince.
Multi-pitch rock climbing in the Aiguille Rouge
We are very fortunate in the Chamonix Valley, to have an excellent lift system for accessing the higher mountains. It is possible to purchase a lift pass which if you come for more than one day, can work out very reasonable in price. The lifts open for the summer around June 15th, but the Aiguille du Midi lift operates year round, except for scheduled maintenance usually in November.
Dave below the impressive tower of the Crochues with the route ‘Atome Crochues’ taking the steep pillars and walls on the right hand side. Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix Valley
The climbing on this side of the valley is predominately on Gneiss which makes up the outer band of rock from which the granite plug of the Mont Blanc massif rests within. Most of the routes are partially or fully equipped with bolts but I would recommend taking a small rack of traditional gear to back up or add more whilst you get used to the climbing.
Le Brevent and Plan Praz Multi-pitch climbing
As I mentioned earlier in this article Le Brevent hosts some fantastic single pitch climbing with some of the best backdrops imaginable but if you are wanting to take single to multi-pitch this area has plenty to offer as well and unbelievably all by walking downhill to start.
The slabby traverse before the crux wall pitch on La Somone.
La Somone (D-5b) is a classic multi pitch climb to get started on, following a blunt rock rib to a summit and impressive free hanging abseil. From the bottom of the abseil you can then link up some more rock walls to reach the path only 5minutes from the final lift station. A neighbouring route Crakoukass has a similar style with harder climbing at D+ 6a if you are looking for more of a challenge.
Sheena near the top of the main difficulties on the long crux 5a pitch on Hotel California, Plan Praz
You can also access many excellent routes from the mid station at Plan Praz. Here routes such as Hotel California (D+ 5a) and Cocher-Cochon (TD-6a) give some fantastic climbing in a stunning setting, all bolted and with a good path to walk off.
Clocher-Clochetons Traverse
However, if you are looking for a slightly different style of adventure, I would recommend the Clocher-Clochetons traverse to combine many alpine skills and test your rope work. This absorbing traverse of this skyline makes for a magical adventure with spires to summit and abseil from and a very entertaining and engaging tyrolean to negotiate in the middle.
Lou on Clocher Clochetons traverse, Brevent. Photo Lou Reynolds
I would recommend practising your lassoing and Tyrolean techniques before embarking on this adventure or perhaps seeking out a guide to take you on this journey so you can relax and enjoy the superb situation.
Flegere:
The Flegere area is home to some fantastic rock climbs, a superb via ferrata and another via corda alpina to practise those alpine rope skills. There is certainly something for everyone here. From the top of the Gondola, you can traverse the hillside left wards following a well-marked path, to the start of the Via Ferrata des Evettes which is AD in grade, suitable for children of around 10 years and above and has a varied style of steeper climbing on staples, easier wire bridges and culminating in a long wire Nepalese bridge.
The Chamonix Via Ferrata Evettes at Flegere with a remarkable backdrop of the Mont Blanc Massif
If this is too much for your vertigo, there are various places to opt out along the way, so it is a great via ferrata for warming up on. You can find information about this via ferrata on the Chamonix.net website and app.
Ellen on the Via Feratta Evettes at Flegere. Photo Lou Reynolds
From the top of this Via Ferrata, you can follow the path back down to the lift station or continue along a beautiful rocky ridge for the Via Corda Evettes which takes you over various ridges, abseils and rocky traverses to the summit of Pic Jaune. You will need a 50m rope and plenty of quickdraws plus some supplementary rock gear for this route. There are regular bolts along the way and the abseils are equipped but it is nice to have some extra gear for belays and the odd additional runner. You can descend easily off this route to the west in various places along the way should you need to cut the route short.
Ellen on Via Corda Flegere. The tougher continuation of the Via Ferrata. Photo Lou Reynolds
Aiguille de L’Index
From the top of the via corda you can walk uphill for 10 minutes to reach the top of the Index chair lift which runs during the summer. You can use this to access some of the other rock climbs in this area. The lift is named after the Aiguille de L’index, a prominent pointy peak that stands out as you reach the top of the lift.
On the tricky crux move of the classic SE Ridge of L’Index…in nice sunny dry conditions…
The aiguille de L’index offers some excellent climbing at very amenable grades to the summit of a narrow peak which requires two or three abseils to descend from. The most classic of these climbs is the Southeast Ridge AD 4c which for the confident can be climbed in mountaineering boots or rock climbing shoes for a bit more security. Combined with the Via Corda Evettes this can make a great mountaineering day out for Alpine mountaineering practise.
Sheena on the fine first pitch of Nez Rouge above the Index chairlift, Flegere, Chamonix.
If you want more chance of having the route to yourself then you may prefer to climb the Brunat Perroux 5c+ on the south face of the Index. To the right of the index are some other quality multipitch climbs such as Modern times and Mani Pulti, only 10/15 minutes approach from the lift as well as some longer fully equipped routes only 30minutes walk away over on the Grand Floria such as the 3-star route of Manhattan (6a) and Asia (6a)
Andy & Meg setting off from the deck at the base of the Grande Floria. This pitch is to the right of the normal start of Manhattan ( which was wet – but it can be used to approach the rest of the climb).
Chapelle de la Glière
If you are looking for a bigger more mountainous and technical challenge, then the Chapelle de la Glière South- southeast arete D+6a should tick this box. This classic route has an alpine grade as well as a rock grade for good reason as it is a longer (425m) and more committing journey along a stunning rock ridge crossing the legendary ‘Razoir pitch’ a knife edge rock ridge to negotiate and finishing up the 6a pitch of The Chapelle which you can spot from the lift.
The Razoir Pitch On The Chappelle de Gliere – With The Chamonix Valley Below & Mont Blanc Massif Across The Valley
This final section can be avoided if 6a is pushing your limits, but it is well worth the visit for the true summit. Moving efficiently on this route is required to ensure a seat on the last lift back down to the valley and is good training for more challenging routes in the high mountains.
Aiguille du Pouce
The Aiguille du Pouce offers a more unique and remote experience on the Northern side of the Aiguille Rouge. It is recommended to take the last lift and bivy out or spend the night out to get an early start for routes on this peak as the approach is longer and more complex and route finding more challenging.
I can recommend the Voie de Dalles TD-5c which takes in 360m of south facing Gneiss slabs to the summit of the Aiguille du Pouce which then involves some mountaineering to reach the descent path back towards the Flegere lift station. This makes for a fantastic outing in a remote setting.
Aiguille du Midi
On the other side of the valley from the Aiguille Rouge, we can look across to the Mont Blanc massif and an intimidating wall of spires and rock towers which guard the huge glacial expanse behind. This rock fortress holds some incredible long routes and full on multi day mountain routes on immaculate granite. Many of the routes on this side of the valley require a progressive approach and I would suggest are not to be undertaken lightly.
The remarkable Aiguille du Midi lift at sunset seen from the north face of the Aiguille du Midi
However, I would like to mention a couple of routes for a taste of what this side of the valley has to offer. To access these routes, we can use the iconic Telepherque de l’Aiguille du Midi which is one of France’s most popular tourist attractions. You can see why when you take the lift to the summit at 3800m and witness the panorama of mountains and glacier all around. The original lift came into operation in 1955 when it held the title of the world’s highest cable car for about two decades. It still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world from 1,035 to 3,842m. For this reason, it can get very busy so it is worth reserving your place on the gondola a few days beforehand so that you ensure a place at the time you would like. We will be exiting the cable car at the first station, the Plan du midi, to set out towards the first rock tower to the left of the Aiguille du midi lift, the Aiguille du Peigne.
Plan de l’Aiguille – Aiguille du Peigne
Both routes are mostly on traditional gear with an occasional bolt or in-situ anchor. They are both brilliant routes for people operating at the grade. For the Papillon arete I would suggest you are comfortable on HVS/E1 5b at home in the UK and used to climbing with a rucksack on as it is often necessary to carry Ice axe, crampons and mountain boots up the route to deal with the snow fields on descent.
The superb sculpted granite rock architecture on the Arête des Papillons. Chamonix Valley Granite
The ascent of the Voie Normal of l’Aiguille du Peigne makes for a brilliant alpine peak with scrambling, big boot rock climbing and abseils and down climbing in descent. This is excellent training ground for routes such as the Horlin Ridge on the Matterhorn. It is also worth noting that L’Aiguille du Peigne is a notorious lightening conductor and there is certainly nowhere to hide on either of these routes, so it worth saving for a sunny and stable weather day.
Chris enjoying the beautiful solid Mont Blanc granite on the Chamonix classic of the Papillons Arete
Les Lepidopteres D 5b is a fantastic route following slabs and grooves to weave a route through some big terrain at an amenable grade. Snow patches hanging on this northly aspect can create seepage on the route, so it can be better to climb in mid-summer when everything has dried out or the Papillon arete gives a quicker drying but harder alternative.
Les Lepidopteres gives a great introduction to some of the climbing on this peak. If combined with one of the routes higher on the Peigne, it can make for a fantastic long day of granite rock climbing and mountaineering. The descent should not be underestimated as you have some abseils and scrambling in descent to negotiate to reach the snowfields below.
Meg & Andy on the lovely granite ridge at the top of the route ‘Les Lepidopteres’ above the Plan de l’Aiguille, Chamonix
The neighbouring route of Papillons arete (you notice the winged insect theme here) gets top 50 in the Rock Fax Guidebook for Chamonix and rightly so, it is a classic route which takes in some impressive terrain, weaving through pinnacles and steep walls to reach the same finishing point as Les Lepidopteres. For some local fauna it is worth keeping an eye out for the rarely sighted and strikingly beautiful little Papillon Oiseau (Butterfly bird) is a wall creeper that lives high in these granite walls. Their flight mimics that of a butterfly and with red flashes and black with white spots across its wings, it is easy to take a second look and wonder if you have just seen a giant butterfly.
Aiguille de Blaitiere
The red pillar of l’Aiguille de Blaitiere hosts an impressive selection of routes on immaculate red granite. This buttress is more in the heart of the Aiguille rouge with a longer approach over snow and easy climbing, to reach the starting ledge, giving you a proper mountain feeling. Abseil is the only method of decent from these routes and caution is required to be sure of the right line and avoid stuck ropes.
Dan enjoying the high quality and shady morning granite low down on Nabot Léon
If all your rope skills are slick and you are confident on E1 terrain, then Nabot Leon TD 6a is a great route to get a feel for the climbing here whilst in wonder at all your future projects. As with most routes put up by the local legend Michael Piola, it is a classic, for good reason with a fantastic slab and corner pitch near the top which makes for some great photographs and a big wall atmosphere. Routes here are in a similar style to those accessed from the top of the Aiguille du midi and give a taste of the granite climbing that the Mont Blanc massif has to offer.
The rappels off Nabot Léon – back down Marjorette Thatcher
Alpine training
If you are looking for some Alpine mountaineering and climbing training or wanting to prepare yourself for big alpine routes such as the Matterhorn, then combining some of these routes can be a good choice for fitness and efficiency training. For example: linking up the Via Corda at Flegere with the Southeast Arete of L’index or moving efficiently up one or two of the Via Corda Alpina’s at Les Mottets.
Slabby pitched rock climbing on The Traverse of Les Perrons
Routes such as the Normal route on the Aiguille du Peigne or traversing Les Perrons also give excellent training for efficient movement, route finding and rope work to build your skills and prepare for bigger and more technical alpine peaks whilst acclimatising. As a Mountain Guide I often use some of these routes during a week-long alpine course to prepare and train my guests for bigger objectives whilst climbing some beautiful routes at the same time.
Venturing out of the Valley
This section describes some ideas of areas to visit out of the main Chamonix valley. This could be good if you are looking to avoid the crowds on a busy mid-summer weekend or just keen to explore some other areas and rock types.
Barberine
The pretty hamlet of Barberine near the Swiss border
Right on the Swiss French boarder, you will need to remember your passport for this crag, although most often you can park on the French side and walk through. Sweeping granite slabs broken by steeper walls and grassy tree filled ledges this crag hosts some excellent climbs mostly fully equipped routes.
Chris enjoying the golden sun kissed slabs on Cacao Girls, 6b / 6a on the French Swiss border to the east of the Chamonix Valley
The grades jump up into the mid 6’s quite soon at this crag but there is a route called Cacao girls which goes at 5c with one pitch of 6b/A0 it is well bolted to help you pull through the crux and makes for an excellent nine pitch route.
Emosson Dam
Just over into Switzerland you can access the beautiful Emosson dam which is a stunning place to visit. Here you are surrounded by beautiful alpine routes, the soaring ridge of the Perons Traverse attracts alpinists training for peaks such as the Matterhorn, whilst the South face of the Perons offers some testing and more traditional harder rock routes. Marvel as you walk across the dam at the sport climb which scales the steep and incredibly airy dam wall below you.
Scott enjoying the early morning sun rock with a couple of thin moves right at the end of the first pitch – Aqua Concert above the Emosson Dam on the Swiss French border
Aqua concert (6a) is a route worth seeking out as it follows a striking ridge and buttress of l’Aiguille du Van which you look directly onto from the parking. Climbing above the lake gives some excellent positions and tops out right onto the summit. It is worth taking a very small rack to supplement this mostly well bolted route and descent is via the access path for the Traverse of the Perons.
Col de la Colombière
For a change of scenery head down the Arve Valley and the beckoning grassy meadows and Limestone walls of the Aravis. Below you there is a buzz of activity from motorbikes and cyclists enjoying the winding mountain pass whilst you can spectate as if flying with the Vultures that circle overhead.
A stunning position high on the Arete du Doigt on Pointe Percée, Aravis
There are many three star multi-pitch sport routes to choose from in the upper 5’s and low 6’s, some of which are many 100’s of meters long and although from below the climbing can look broken by grassy ledges, there is no shortage of excellent climbing. Featured with pocketed walls and fluted runnels where water has carved its path down rock slabs, there is interest on every pitch. A couple of suggestions to get you started: Le Jallouvre and Les Gaguistes 5b *** or Allez y Madame Mummery 5c+***
This article only scratches the surface of what Chamonix has to offer with regard to rock climbing. Amongst the classics listed here you will find some excellent and less frequented neighbours as well as so many more new areas to explore. I hope that this article gives some inspiration to get started and a variety of rock types, grades and styles to explore. I have only mentioned the valley and mid mountain routes here but there is whole world more of alpine rock climbing in the high mountains above when you are seeking the next challenge.
More info on current Chamonix rock climbing conditions here.
Another article on Chamonix Via Feratta options on the way. But get in touch if you would like some guiding as there are numerous good ones available in the area both in the valley and a little further afield.
Further info on our Chamonix rock climbing courses and private guiding here:
