The famous Haute-Route was first crossed on foot by an English party at the end of nineteenth century before being gradually linked together on skis in the first quarter of the twentieth century. It is one of the most famous ski traverses in the world, and for good reason. This fantastic journey continuously crosses glaciers and high mountain passes through the heart of the French and Swiss alps. There are spectacular views of some of the largest and most impressive peaks of the alps and the grand finale is to ski down the enormous Stockli glacier beneath the Matterhorn…
Words and pictures by Lou Reynolds, May 2024
Ski Haute Route journey in to the wonderful eastern Swiss Valais Alps – Early morning on route to the Col de L’Eveque.
The journey is linear which adds another element of satisfaction, to be travelling from Chamonix all the way to Zermatt with just your skis and packs is a very rewarding feeling. Every new pass reached opens another door to the next part of the journey, new views, and new places to stay. The refuges we visit along the way are a large part of the journey. Each one offering its own unique charm, cuisine and hospitality whilst situated in some incredible locations.
The famous Dix Hut providing a hospitable base camp and spring board over the Pigne d’Arolla and penultimate day of the Haute Route
For many it is a once in a lifetime experience, for me having travelled this route many times, it is still just as special and unique each time. The voyage combines both ski touring and mountaineering with up to 1500m ascent per day and utilising many of the mountaineering and skiing skills along this six-day journey. It is a true high mountain adventure.
Dawn departure on the high mountain ski adventure that is – The Haute Route
I have guided the ski Haute route now once every season for the past four years and every year we embark on a new expedition that bonds the team and our experiences as a group. Along the way we befriend other mountain goers in special little homes perched in impossible places. I often feel a mixture of contentment and sadness on reaching Zermatt, glad to have safely arrived at our final destination, excited at the prospect of spending a night in my own home once again. Yet at the same time, sad the journey has come to an end.
Sociable meal times in the huts, catching up with your own group, other groups, the weather and plans for tomorrow…
As part of this expedition, we always have new challenges to overcome and ever-changing weather and snow conditions. This is all part of the magic.
If everything was easy it wouldn’t be as rewarding. As a result, the weather and snow conditions contribute to a large part of the evening discussions and planning and climate change regularly features in conversation both on and off the mountain. I try to help my guests become aware of the changes we are seeing in the mountains, which although the realities are sad to see, often prompts an interesting discussion and shared ideas for the small acts we can make in our own lives to try and help the situation.
En route to the famous crossing of the Col de Chardonne (in spring 2009) on the first day of a Verbier Haute Route bound for the Trient Hut. The snowy col is now steeper and rockier any teams now cross the Col du Passon instead and stay at the Albert Premier Hut as an alternative first day.
How is climate change affecting the Haute Route?
As High Mountain Guide’s we are witness to the climate effects on a daily, weekly, and yearly basis. Because of our work in the high mountains, we see firsthand the impact. We must carefully navigate the temperature spikes and associated risk throughout the seasons. In the winter the main noticeable factors of climate change are the receding glaciers and the rising rain/ snow limit. The depth and lengths of all of Europe’s glacier are reducing each year which means that access on an off the glaciers to cross rocky passes or valley exits, can become more complex. We are also seeing regular rain events up to high altitudes during the winter, and more extreme fluctuations in temperatures. A few times during the winter of 2024 we saw temperature changes of 20 degrees over the course of 24 hours and strong southerly winds, known as the Foehn winds, bringing sand from the Sahara Desert.
Ski Glaciers Grands Montetes, Argentiere and on to the Col du Passon & Tour Glacier. A beautiful glacial start to the Haute Route but on quite challenging steep ski mountaineering terrain.
The Haute route has many variations, but the Classic Haute route and most frequented option starts in Argentiere at the Grand Montet lift station and travels over the high glacial Plateau de Trient, taking shelter at the Refuge Albert Premier or Cabane du Trient, before crossing the final Col des Ecandies into the Val d’arpette and down to Champex. The Col de Ecandies is where we first encounter the changes of climate change in a significant way. In years gone by, when the glacier was deeper, this would have barely presented a challenge. Now this can be one of the most technically challenging sections of the route, involving several roped pitches up a rocky mountaineering terrain.
On the mixed ground to the Col des Ecandies to access the descent down the Val d’Arpette to Champex. This passage is often now much steeper and more rocky / mixed than in previous seasons and a helmet is advised.
This requires a team of six to split into two groups so that the guide can safely protect the two groups in separate rope teams. This rock section is now also threatened by small rock falls dislodged from other groups and snow melt. A helmet is mandatory for making an ascent of this pass.
Once we have surmounted the pass, with a well done and some refreshments, we are free to ski a beautiful descent to the valley.
Fatmap route from Cabane de Trient to Champex via the Col des Ecandies
Often the final section involves a short walk due to reduced snow quantities in the mid mountain altitudes. From here we take a taxi around to Verbier and use the lift infrastructure to reach the Cabane de Mont Fort and the next section of the route.
Leaving the Cabane du Mont Fort à Verbier on day 3 of our classic Haute Route
Between Verbier and Zermatt there are only a couple of escape routes, both lead down to the small village of Arolla. This means that the following section is very committing and can only be considered for safe travel with a stable enough weather window. Poor weather and avalanche conditions can pose many threats to safe travel across these high and exposed mountains, even with the expertise of a Mountain Guide.
Great snow conditions for both the touring and skiing sections of the Haute Route in April 24
From the Cabane de Mont Fort we cross and often summit the Rosa Blanche with a superb ski down to the beautifully situated Cabane de Prafleuri. The benefits of such a high glacial route are the access to higher altitudes above the rain limit. This year above 2000m we had large quantities of snow. The crevasses and ice sections often exposed on these glaciers were well covered providing excellent skiing conditions and regular powder days. The last two years have gifted us with some fantastic powder skiing from the summit of Rosa Blanche to the Cabane de Prafleuri which makes the hard work uphill, even more worth it for those fresh tracks.
Skinning up towards Mont Blanc de Chelion on route to the Cabane des Dix.
The next section where we might see some more changes due to climate change is on the crossing of the Pigne d’Arolla, one of the summit highlights. This has been the scene for a sad ski touring incident which has since been documented in a Swiss national Television program to recount and learn from. We treat this mountain with respect and cross when weather and conditions allow, with an alternate itinerary that allows safe passage onwards to the refuge in poorer weather.
Ski Haute Route team on the summit of the Pigne d’Arolla, the high point of the Haute Route.
The Pigne d’Arolla is a fantastic summit with views towards the Matterhorn and back to Mont Blanc. On one side, the north face sweeps steeply down to the sleepy village of Arolla. On the other, it is a perfect ski slope for us to enjoy.
En route to the Pigne! Magnificent touring terrain from the Dix to the Vignettes Hut over the Pigne d’Arolla. Matterhorn in the distance on the right and Dent Blanche left
On the climb to this summit, we have a technical section which often involves a boot pack up some steep ice to reach the Col de Serpentine. The ice here is now, often, bare, and exposed meaning that we need good boot crampons and some understanding of crampon technique to make the climb easier. Your guide will use the rope and ice climbing kit such as ice screws to safeguard this section. Once over the difficulties, the final ascent to the summit it gradual and leads to a fantastic ski down to the Cabane de Vignettes.
The remarkable perched location of the Cabane des Vignettes. It’s in there if you look closely! But there is now an inside toilet, unlike the old days!
The final day from the Cabane des Vignettes to Zermatt is a fantastic and testing finale involving the crossing of three passes over 25km skiing and 1500m of ascent. Commencing in the early hours just as the day in dawning, many teams leave the hut in a procession of lights, wiggling down onto the Glacier du Mont Collon.
Reaching the final Col before descending to Zermatt with the Matterhorn in the background.
This day has various descents and climbs to put all the transition skills to the test. Skinning, skiing, and boot packing up and over to reach the head of the Stockli Glacier where we rejoice in the prospect of 2000m ski descent and marvel at this incredible glacier in the shadow of the Matterhorn.
Skiing the remarkable last descent down the Stockli Glacier with the Dent d’Herens beyond. En route to the Matterhorn and Zermatt
With the immediacy of climate change, to have the opportunity to ski on these huge snaking glaciers and wonder at the giants around us is very special. This last year due to such large snow quantities in the high mountains, this descent was excellent, with crevasses well covered and providing some wonderful skiing. However, in recent previous years during some of the drier winters, we have had to weave a careful route through large crevasse fields with thin snow bridges requiring full concentration and good ski ability. It is certainly not all over until we are sipping a cold one, nestled in the town of Zermatt.
The magnificent last day of the Haute Route, skiing the Stockli Glacier in to Zermatt and beneath the Matterhorn. What a finalé
With the demands of life today and the worries of the climate crisis, I think we need to escape to the mountains more than ever, to connect with our environment and to interact with these giants as we know them. The impact of climate change does create challenges and we must adapt, but thankfully the mountains have already been training us for this. We have learned through time and experience in the mountains, that the best way we can approach any of these mountain journey’s is with an open and flexible approach. We must make the most of the good opportunities and work with the challenges to ensure safe passage through them whilst having fun and adventure along the way.
Ski Haute Route team, april 24 arrive on the streets of Zermatt. Great conditions and great guiding from Lou!
We hope to ski with you soon and good skiing, touring & good training in the meantime!
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Find out more about our Ski Haute trips on the page above. We have open teams you can join for the Verbier Haute Route, as per the dates listed below, or private guiding for the Plateau du Couloir route or even a fast haute route traverse over just a few days.
We also run Ski Haute Route training days and weekends in Chamonix both as group courses and private guiding, so please get in touch for more details.
Ollie & Richard, Haute Route Training around the superb Grand St Bernard Pass on the Swiss Italian Alpine border.
