The colourful history of the Eiger brings this mountain, like few others, in to the popular domain and means it is both famous and notorious not just with mountaineers but with the public at large. A lot of the Eiger’s fame comes from its enormous, steep and imposing north face, the Eigerwand. Less well know but equally of high interest and greater accessibility to the mountaineer are the Eiger’s fine summit ridges.
Our 5 day Climb The Eiger course warms up with 2 training climbs in Chamonix before heading East for an adventure in the Bernese Oberland, the superb mountain range in the Swiss Valais Alps with the Eiger at its heart…
- Climb two of the classic ridges on the Eiger and thus make a fine traverse of the mountain
- Warm up with two classic alpine climbs based in the Chamonix Valley
- Climb a famous 4000m peak of the Swiss Bernese Oberland, like the Jungfrau or Monch
- As the approach to the Mittelegi Hut is an alpine climb itself we aim to climb 5 alpine routes in 5 days
5 Day Climb The Eiger Itinerary
This is a suggested itinerary based on good weather. It may be necessary to change the programme to make best use of local mountain conditions.
Pre-Course fitness & mountaineering training and then, if you have the time, some training and acclimatisation in the Chamonix Valley for a few days before the course starts. We can offer advice on how to get the most out of these pre-course elements & please see our UK Matterhorn training weekend courses for adding another great element to your build up.
- Days 1 & 2: Complete two training & acclimatisation climbs based in the Chamonix Valley. The exact climbs will be decided close to the time according to weather & conditions and based on your experience and aspirations. These climbs will include steep rock, ice and snow to prepare for the terrain on the traverse of the Eiger. Examples are the Aiguille du Peigne (3009m) in the Chamonix Aiguilles, Left Edge Route on Mont Blanc du Tacul and many other Chamonix classics. Check our Chamonix Mountaineering Gallery for more information.
- Days 3 & 4: The Ascent of the Eiger. An early start for the drive to Grindlewald which is followed by the spectacular train ride up the Jungfraujoch railway. We disembark at a tiny station in the bowels of the Eiger and make our way along the technical ascent up to the spectacularly positioned Mittelegi Hut. After an evening of relaxing Swiss hospitality we make an early start next morning to climb the Mittelegi Ridge and descend the South Ridge to the Monchsjoch Hut. A long day! If conditions are snowy we may opt to climb the South Ridge instead.
- Day 5: Climb the Monch, Jungfrau or Gros Fiescherhorn from the Monchsjoch Hut. Another classic days mountaineering on a Bernese Oberland 4000m peak depending on the weather and energy levels remaining after the Eiger. Take the Jungfraujoch train back to Grindlewald and return to Chamonix for evening celebrations.
Who Can Climb The Eiger?
The mere sound of this mountains name “The Eiger” tells you that this is not a beginners peak! This ascent is therefore only suitable for folk with previous rock climbing and mountaineering experience. Confidence and competence is required with crampons and ice axe and climbers should be capable of seconding steep rock pitches in mountain boots (Alpine IV, UK Severe, U.S. 5.6) wearing a rucksack. The summit day can be quite long (9-12 hours) and therefore good fitness, stamina and the abillity to concentrate on exposed terrain when tired are all also important. Further training in these skills along with swift alpine rope work will be given at the start of the week but it is essential that folk have proven competence in all these fields already. Please get in touch to discuss your experience levels or, if you are not sure, why not complete one of our Chamonix mountaineering courses beforehand?
Peter Little, Eiger Climber, July 2015
Rob, I had an amazing time, and yes I’m over the moon about summitting the Eiger – and of course getting back down safely. Paul was great – a wonderful mix of knowledge, skill, experience and measured patience, which helped me enormously. I learned a great deal too. The commitment to helping me achieve my goals and flexibility to making this happen all played a part in making it a success. Warm Regards, until the next adventure….
Climbing The North Face Of The Eiger
We often get asked about guiding the North Face of the Eiger and what sort of preparation and mountain skills are required for people with this goal. How fit do you need to be? How tough & experienced from other alpine climbs and how long does it take to develop all this experience?
In reality the preparation for an ascent like this is not a ‘box ticking’ exercise but moreover a case of building solid skills in a wide range of mountaineering areas. Once these are developed they need consolidation on other tough high mountain alpine climbs & north faces. Only then will the alpinist emerge…. Someone who not only possesses high level skills from technical rock, ice & mixed climbing but also has the toughness & cool headedness to deliver them in a high & exposed mountain arena where fatigue, fear, dehydration & hunger are constant companions!
As discussed these skills all merge in to each other & large mixed alpine faces are amazing alpine training venues in that they demand a multitude of mountain tac tics, skills and physical & personal traits just to get to the top of them! However here is an attempt to isolate some of the required skills and assess how they may be acquired:
- Good general mountaineering movement skills gained from many trips in to the mountains and including tough walking over broken terrain; rocky scrambling; use of crampons and one ice axe. Experience of this can be gained on classic alpine ‘pd’ terrain or Scottish grade I-II routes.
- Rock climbing skills, seconding up to at least F6b / UK E2 with rock climbing shoes on and at least F5c / UK HVS with mountain boots and a pack on.
- Very solid & efficient rope work skills as well as the ability to manage all other mountain equipment effectively & swiftly. An ability to look after yourself in terms of temperature regulation, hydration & fuelling and to be able to do all this without it slowing the pace of the climbing team.
- Very solid cramponing on ‘classic alpine north face terrain’ eg 50-65 degree snow & ice and to have the fitness & muscular endurance to do this for miles on end with a big pack on. This experience is best gained through other alpine routes & smaller north faces. Examples would be routes on Chamonix’s Triangle du Tacul and other smaller North Faces like the Tour Ronde, Gran Paradiso, Les Courtes, Aiguille du Chardonnet & Midi etc.
- A solid skill level with 2 technical axes on steep ice & mixed ground eg WI 5 & M5+ / Scottish VI gained from technical alpine routes – eg some classic Chamonix Goulottes; hard Scottish winter routes from grade IV upwards but at least some seconding of Scottish grade 6 pitches. Some dry tooling routes, especially on limestone to simulate a similar style to the Eiger would also be useful.
- The ability to climb steep broken or technical rock passages in crampons is also an essential skill on the Eiger ascent. This is best gained from lots of general alpine mountaineering & technical mixed climbing Scottish style winter mixed routes & dry tooling practice.
- Obviously great fitness is required for an ascent of the Eiger north face but, unless we are trying to emulate Ueli Steck (which we are not!) then this is more of an endurance / diesel engine style fitness. Blistering ground speed is not required but the ability to maintain a steady & efficient pace for several days on the go without drastically fatiguing is critical. This must be achieved despite the possible additional factor of spending a night or several bivis on the face. The art of making yourself comfortable on a small, cold & exposed ledge for the night is another skill that needs practice therefore!
Like many hugely rewarding ascents & achievements, success on the Eiger Nordwand is likely to come as a result of a long & tough series of pathways of preparation. Even then there still requires a temporal alignment of good conditions, great weather & a partner who is available and as fit, well trained & motivated as you are. Good luck….but more to the point, good training and do get in touch if we can help with your personal Eiger training plans and arrange some alpine climbing with us. Having done a few routes together we can then advise you on a training programme to be able to attempt the face.
In the meantime watch our inspiring short film of a one day ascent of the 1938 route on the Eiger North Face by High Mountain Guides staff Rob Jarvis & Mike Brownlow.
Eiger Traverse Equipment List
Please refer to our Matterhorn equipment list which has the same equipment requirements as for the Eiger traverse, eg light & neat summer alpine mountaineering boots, more precise than we would ideally recommend for Mont Blanc where slightly warmer boots are preferable.
We also have an Eiger North Face equipment list here although this was from 2009 so some things may be a little out of date now:
2022 Course Dates & Prices
Our course includes 5 climbing / guided days and an introductory talk the evening before the first day.
Courses are run in July, August & early September. Get in touch to discuss your own dates to arrange a private guiding arrangement.
Max Guide to client ratio is 1:2 for days 1 & 2 and 1:1 for days 3-5. 1:1 for the full 5 days is ideal!
£2100 based on 2 guests sharing a guide for days 1 & 2 and 1:1 guiding for days 3-5
£2550 based on an individual booking with 1:1 guiding for days 1-5
What’s included in the Price?
Our courses are priced on a ‘guiding only’ basis which means you pay the exact cost price for all other expenses like hotels, mountain huts and lift passes.
- 5 full days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
- Course planning. A tailor made itinerary and booking of mountain huts
- Car transport during the course
What’s not included?
- Valley accommodation. This course is based in Chamonix and a variety of accommodation options are available. Please see our Chamonix Accommodation Notes with overnight rates starting at C. 20 euros per night for guest house style accommodation through to 5* Hotel options.
- Mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guide(s). Swiss huts are around 80 CHF per night half board, guides costs is about half this.
- Parking in Grindlewald approx 50CHF for 3 days and the brilliant but very expensive train to Jungfraujoch 195 CHF per adult.
- Your personal mountaineering equipment – see our alpine mountaineering kit list and options for mountain equipment hire.
- Flights and transfer from the airport to Chamonix.
- Lunches, extra drinks, snacks etc during the course
- Total additional expenses are about 430€ for the Chamonix part based on 3 nights hotel accommodation 2* hotel single room half board (about 110€ per night) and use of lifts on 2 days. The Swiss part will be about 630 CHF for parking, train costs and hut nights for you and your guide.
Latest Eiger Conditions
Please check the comments boxes below for any recent reports from the Eiger. If you have been on the Mountain yourself recently please send us a conditions report so we can add it here….
12 August 2021, Still Snowy But Decent Conditions For Strong Teams
Teams now climbing again via both Mittellegi and South ridge with some good conditions reported for the snowy sections – but more delicate, with crampons on lower down than normal for this time of year on the lower rocky sections. Still clearing in the current hot weather.
23 July 2021, Slow Start To Summer – But Mittellegi Hut Now Open & Good Conditions
After a very snowy and thus slow start to the summer the Mittellegi Hut is open, in theory at least for the summer season ahead. Conditions are still quite snowy but there are teams climbing the Mittellegi and South Ridge reporting good conditions.
3 March 2021, Eiger North Face Receiving Plenty of Ascents
The long period of stable late winter weather has continued and numerous teams have been climbing the 1938 route on the North Face in relatively dry winter conditions.
17 September 2020, Mittellegi Hut Closed But Still Good Conditions For The Eiger Traverse
24 August 2020, Reports of good conditions for the Eiger Traverse
We shared our route with a Grindlewald Guide yesterday who said there were currently very good conditions on the Eiger for the traverse via the Mittellegi and South Ridges. Lots of teams have been climbing it over the last few days and several teams we know heading there today.
3 September 2019, Fresh Snow On The Eiger & Hut Closed For A Day Or 2 – But Otherwise Good Conditions.
Monday’s storms delivered more than a dusting of fresh snow above the Mittellegi Hut and around the Oberland in general. Whilst the hut has shut for a day or 2, the good conditions should return quite quickly if the sun comes out for a bit. Temperatures do look cooler than they have been for much of the summer so far, but it’s not fully autumn yet either!
4 August 2019, Eiger Traverse….Train To Train, After The Matterhorn The Previous Day!
Great effort from Alberto & our Canadian Guest Jon to pack this last climb of his ‘Mission Impossible’ trilogy in just before the poor weather arrived….
22 July 2019, Swift & Quite Dry Conditions For Eiger Traverse
With the south face now mainly stripped of snow and the Mittellegi Hut open, high season is in full swing on the Eiger and teams have been making the traverse via the relatively dry Mittellegi & South Ridges. We have various teams heading that way over the next few weeks on our Mission Impossible programme.
12 August 2018, Good Conditions & Great Weather For Aller Retour On Eiger South Ridge
Having already delayed the ascent by several days due to the storm last week, a weather window presented itself for today, but the Mittellegi hut was already full as it was Saturday night. What to do!? An aller retour from the Monchjoch Hut gave an enjoyable 5 hours of climbing up and 4 hours in descent for Helen and Mike. A great result after Helen did our Matterhorn training course and Matterhorn ascent this time last year.
5 July 2018, Mittelleggi Hut Open For The Weekend & Decent Conditions For Eiger Traverse
The Mittellegi Hut was open last weekend and will be opening again this weekend and continuously beyond that if weather & conditions allow. The Grindlewald Guides company reported ascents of the Mittellegi Ridge last weekend and the traverse completed via the descent of the South Ridge.