Climb The Weissmies 4017m

Climb the Weissmies, Featuring…

• Ascents of two fine Swiss alpine peaks including the 4017m Weissmeis & and 4027m Allalinhorn or 3363m Mittelrück
• Rocky mountain scrambling in ascent & descent along with a very fine snowy & narrow summit ridge
• 2 nights spent in a lovely Swiss mountain hut. Superb location, hospitable staff, good Swiss mountain food
• Quality alpine mountaineering training
• Great progression (and acclimatisation) towards climbing other 4000m peaks including Mont Blanc & the Matterhorn
• Meet other like minded climbers for a sociable 3 day trip in the high mountains
• An action packed long alpine weekend easily done from Geneva Airport & transfer to Chamonix
• The option of returning to Chamonix at the end of the course or catching a train direct to Geneva from Martigny station

Just wanted to say what a brilliant experience it was with HMG – from the training in Snowdonia to summiting Weissmies last month. All of the guides were terrific and it was an unforgettable adventure. Thanks so much, Rob!

Rob Merret, Snowdonia Matterhorn Training and Weissmies Courses May & June 2022

Day 1 – Journey Deep Into the Swiss Valais Alps

Our three day Weissmies course begins in Chamonix, easily reached from Geneva airport via a simple one hour transfer. Day 1 begins with introductions, a weather brief and equipment check. We can also hire out any alpine mountaineering equipment out at this stage. Please check our alpine mountaineering equipment list and mountaineering equipment hire pages in advance and let us know what items you will require.

Our onward car journey from Chamonix takes us east across the Swiss border and through the Vineyards of the Rhone Valley before we steadily ascend the classic Swiss alpine valley of the Saastal to Saas Grund. Here we leave the car, visit the cafe & climbing shop for any final items required and take the bus up to the village of Saas Almagell where the pleasant 7km, 4 hour hut walk begins.

The Almageller Hut is a classic Swiss Mountain Refuge. Attractive & hospitable, with good food, great views and the hut’s elevation of 2894m is a reasonable sleeping altitude for the first night spent up high. Dinner is served around 6.30pm and involves 4 courses including soup, salad, main course & dessert. Guten Appetit!

Day 2 – Ascent Of The Weissmies (4017m)

On summit day breakfast is served at around 4am and our intention will be to leave the hut 45 mins after that. A rough & rocky path leads up through stony meadows where the classic alpine sensation of being surrounded by the bobbling head lamps of other teams gives a great pre-dawn atmosphere.

The arrival of dawn coincides with reaching the Zwischbergenpass at 3268m. This is an inspiring place in the first rays of the sun from the east, with expansive views over the Italian plains and lake Maggiore, while the Swiss Alpine giants remain aloof in the shadows to the west. A magnificent spot for a brief pause before ascending the snow slopes leading to the rocky South Ridge.

The South Ridge is not technically difficult but is sustained & offers fun scrambling in both ascent and descent. It is a good introduction to this style of mountaineering in preparation for routes on the higher & harder alpine peaks like the Matterhorn and can be climbed in most conditions with or without crampons. The delightful summit ridge presents a slightly exposed and very enjoyable snow crest leading right to the summit and a breath taking panorama of the Alpine chain.

The descent of the mountain is made by the same route and this gives great technical training and a more objectively safe route than the descent of the glacial north flank.   A second night at the lovely Almageller Hut gives more opportunity to enjoy the superb views of the Saas Skyline and soak up the atmosphere of this great mountain arena whilst enjoying the Swiss mountain hut food and hospitality and also acclimatising further with a second night at nearly 2900m.

Day 3 – Ascent Of The Allalinhorn (4027m) or Mittelruck (3363m)

Another 0400 breakfast is taken and, depending on weather, conditions and the guides choice having discussed options with the team we either climb the Allalinhorn or the Mittelruck.  The latter is described below and is accessed direct from the Almageller Hut whereas the Allalinhorn ascent requires a dawn walk down from the hut to then drive up to the nearby famous ski & mountain resort of Saas Fee.  From here we can use the impressive Metro Alpine – MittelAllalin underground train to access the high glacier country from where we start the ascent of the Allalinhorn.

The top lift station gives an enormous leap frog up from the valley to nearly 3500m and the remaining climb of around 600m normally takes around 2-3 hours so we aim to be back in Saas for lunch and back in Chamonix mid afternoon on this last day of the course.

Mittelruck (3363m)

From the dawn start at the hut – the rocky traverse path beneath the famous Portjengrat and round to the Sonnigpass at 3147m.  From here the ascent of the Mittelruck South Ridge is a relatively short scramble which, like the South Ridge of the Weissmeis can be completed in most snow conditions and thus offers more enjoyable scrambling and training for other alpine ascents as well as another good acclimatisation peak.

It’s still a good mountain day with plenty of rough walking and scrambling in ascent and descent and that’s why, for those going on to Climb Mont Blanc after this course, we factor in a rest day between the two 3 day programs.

The descent is made via the same route back to Sonnigpass from where a more direct descent to the lovely alpine meadow at Almagelleralp can be made for an early lunch before the final trek down to Saas Almagell.  The return drive to Chamonix is made with the option of being dropped off at Martigny train station for the direct train to Geneva Airport. Details of this rail journey can be checked on the Swiss Railway timetable website. We aim to be back in Chamonix by mid-late afternoon on day 3.

Required Fitness and Experience Levels

Some previous mountaineering experience is required for the traverse of the Weissmies. Those who have never worn crampons before should investigate our Chamonix Alpine Intro and Climb the Gran Paradiso courses or arrange some private guiding & mountaineering training prior to the course.

Both ascents involve some rocky / mixed scrambling and somewhat narrow and exposed summit ridges so folk should have a head for heights, although the actual difficulty level is quite low. Steep snow must be negotiated efficiently in descent which is why some prior experience with crampons is necessary.

A very good level of fitness & stamina is also required for the long walk to the hut (3-4 hours) and 1100m climb to above 4000m on the summit days (c. 5-8 hours).  Some mountain walking experience is also required in order to be able to deal effectively with the rough & rocky terrain encountered en route to the climbs.

Suggested Course Progression

A good build up to climbing the Weissmies would be completing our Intro Alpine Course and Climbing the Gran Paradiso. This would then set you up well for Climbing Mont Blanc.  The South Ridge of the Weissmeis offers a good volume of moderately technically scrambling in ascent and descent and thus is good preparation for both the Gouter Ridge on Mont Blanc and as training for a future ascent of the Matterhorn.

After that our series of Chamonix mountaineering courses forms a logical progression in the following order; ‘Becoming an Alpinist’ followed by Chamonix Alpinist & then Chamonix private guiding for harder / longer routes & north faces as well as our Climb the Eiger & Matterhorn courses.

When To Climb the Weissmies

Whilst the main season for climbing the Weissmies is high summer (June to September) it is possible to climb the mountain all year round according to weather and conditions. With stable snow conditions In winter and spring, most will make the ascent on skis via the high Hohsaas lift. Those looking for a quieter and tougher climbing experience may choose to climb in the Autumn when the mountain lifts and huts are all closed. Depending on conditions an ascent at this time may still be possible, using the hut’s ‘winter room’ and indeed this can provide a remote feel & magical mountain journey.

Please note the Wiessmies or Climb the Gran Paradiso ascents can often be linked with each other and our Climb Mont Blanc / Climb the Matterhorn courses or would provide a useful springboard for more alpine climbing on a private guiding basis. Please get in touch with your own dates to arrange a private guide for the Wiessmies or an Autumn ascent. We run a range of 3 day courses throughout summer season. See our course dates below.

We can also arrange excellent private guiding itineraries where it is possible to climb some other very good routes from the Almageller Hut (Dry Hornli Ridge & Traverse of the Portjengrat) and the Wiessmies Hut (South Ridge Lagginhorn, North Ridge Weissmies, Fletschorn, Jeggihorn etc) thereby creating a magnificent 3-5 day mountaineering itinerary in the upper Saastaal.

Dave Lozman, Weissmies & Gran Paradiso Courses, Sept 2016

Just a quick one to say thanks for this last week. The climbing has been amazing, particularly the Weissmies. The company has also been good and the guides excellent.  I’m already thinking of booking again for next year and I’d like to discuss some further objectives and my development as an alpine climber. Many thanks once again.

Equipment

Please refer to our classic alpine mountaineering equipment list for a summer traverse of the Weissmies.

Course Dates & Prices

Please check our individual course dates below and visit that page to reserve your place.

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What’s included in the Price?

• 3 days mountain guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
• Transport during the course from Chamonix to the Swiss Alps & back
• Discounted equipment hire prices if required
• Trip management & booking of mountain huts

What’s not included?

• Dinner, bed and breakfast in the mountain huts, c. 80 CHF Swiss Francs per person per night. Discounted if you are a member of an alpine club.
• The guides dinner bed & breakfast at a discounted rate split between group members. E.g with 3 clients this would be c. 30 Swiss Francs each.
• Chamonix Valley accommodation – please see our Chamonix Accommodation notes. Prices start from camping at C.10 euros per night, Bunkhouse for C.20 euros per night and hotel accommodation from around 50 euros upwards.
• Lunches, drinks and snacks
• The high mountain lift pass to descend from Hohsaas (C.35 Swiss Francs)
• Flights and transfers to Chamonix
• Mountaineering equipment. Check the kit list above
• Insurance suitable for alpine mountaineering in Europe
• The approximate total cost of additional essential expenses based on 1 night in a 2* hotel half board single room (approx. 110€ per night), 2 hut nights and the essential lifts is about 110 Euros and 270 CHF. This excludes your share of the guides hut expenses, which can vary depending on the number of participants.

Booking

Please visit the specific Weissmies course dates above to complete a booking form, make a payment and confirm your place.