The excellent snow volume this summer season has made it a pleasure to travel around on the glaciers and mountains of the Mont Blanc Massif, and, in mid July, it’s still really good…

Great snow cover on the glaciers of the upper Vallee Blanche with the Pyramide du Tacul on the far left and Grand Capucin poking out abvoe Dan

Snow conditions on the Aiguille du Midi arete are the best they have been at this time of year for a while and there is a great track leading down to an impressively well filled in Col du Midi and upper Vallee Blanche.

The approach to the classic granite rock route, The East Ridge of the Pyramide du Tacul – one of the easiest up on the Chamonix high altitude granite, is in great condition and access from the glacier to the handy ledges at the base of the route is currently fast and easy.

Morning sun rock on the lovely granite cracks and slabs of the East Ridge of the Pyramide du Tacul

We left our boots and glacier kit at the base of the route and enjoyed light packs, morning sun rock and friendly climbing on this lovely high altitude Chamonix classic.

The mini overhang and crux of the East Ridge with some steeper moves on good holds and lovely cracked slab climbing below

There are some fixed anchors and peg runners but mainly the lovely cracks are left for trad protection which is generally readily available with lots of bomber cam placements.  Pitch grades are mainly in the 4s with one pitch of 5a at a slightly steeper groove and mini overhang with good holds and an in-situ peg.

Dan on the summit of the Pyramide du Tacul after an ascent of the Chamonix granite classic East Ridge

The summit views are stunning and whilst the actual highest point is a granite spear head – there is a lovely flat ledge just below for a summit picnic and place to take it all in.

The descent is now very efficient with a dedicated abseil piste running quite close to the ridge on the south face and it’s worth spotting various anchors out left on the last few pitches of the climb.  These lead efficiently back to the bags at the base of the route…but for those that have come from the Midi a long walk back up hill remains!

Lots of teams enjoying the sun rock on the South Face of Pt Lachenal classics – The Contamines and Harold et Maud

Lots of other teams were out rock climbing on the South faces of Pt Lachenal and the Midi.  There were also plenty of teams climbing Mont Blanc from the Cosmiques Hut via the Trois Monts route starting up the Voie Normale on Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Great snow cover on the Triangle du Tacul and Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route

We returned the following day to climb the Contamine Grisolle on the Triangle du Tacul.  The snow cover is great and the route has a track in place but the sunny aspect of the initial couloir is not ideal if there has not been a good overnight freeze or for teams slow / late to get there!

The passage of the jammed block gives a few fun steeper moves with good rock hooks on the right wall then we took the Variante ‘Champion du monde’ which tackles 30m of steeper snow ice and mixed ground straight above the in-situ below above the jammed block.  Good climbing and a mini north face atmosphere before the angle relents and the longer easier pitches keep coming to the top of the Triangle.

Fun & well protected mixed climbing above the narrows on the Contamine Grisolle – Variante Champion du monde

The continuation to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul had a track and good snow and so did the steep short cut to join the Tacul normal route.  Here the Mont Blanc highway is joined and a rapid descent of the Tacul can be made…but of course, despite the great conditions, the return back up to the Midi is rarely rapid!

Fine snow volume and great conditions for the traverse of the Vallee Blanche. Dent gu Geant on the far left

Regarding our alpine and Chamonix mountaineering group courses, we still have a couple of places available on our Climb The Lagginhorn & Climb The Dufourspitzecourses courses in September & October.

Plus we also have spaces available on our early autumn courses including Climb The Lagginhorn and Monte Rosa Mountaineer in early October.  Check our open courses page for the latest availability on all our group courses for this coming summer and autumn seasons in the Alps.

James enjoying the brilliant snowy early summer style conditions on the Lagginhorn – in July 2024