The dry summer of 2017 continues with plenty of great high mountain weather! Whilst the heatwave temperatures have subsided somewhat the fine sunny weather continues allowing lots of high mountain activity despite the rather dry snow conditions. Many glaciers remain ‘lean’ with extensive crevassing and some fragile snow bridges and most snow & mixed routes, apart from very high altitude options, have suffered the consequences of a hot summer following on from a low snow volume winter.

However, as always, there are lots of good mountaineering options if a flexible approach is taken to prevailing conditions and the sustained good weather has made many superb high mountain itineraries possible. Both the Matterhorn and Eiger are now in good condition via the Hornli & Mittellegi ridges respectively with team summitting both peaks every day at the moment. Mont Blanc also is being climbed via both the Gouter and Cosmiques (3 Monts) routes.

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We climbed Mont Maudit yesterday via the little north face above Col Maudit and then traversed the upper Frontier Ridge and connecting delicate snow & ice ridge to the summit. The traverse of the summit block was then made via a descent towards the Col de la Brenva and then via the fixed rope on the icy slope providing the crux passage on the 3 Monts Mont Blanc route.

Snow ridge near the top of the Frontier Ridge & Italian Alps beyond

The track over Mt Blanc du Tacul, Maudit and up to Mont Blanc was good and numerous teams were enjoying the ascent. Several teams were also climbing the Kuffner & Diable Aretes in dry conditions which is perhaps better for the latter than the former. The Triangle du Tacul looked unusually dry and icy and not in good condition although there was 1 team climbing a grey looking Chere Couloir. The Arete Laurence and Cosmiques arete were being climbed in rocky conditions but the track on Pt Lachenal again looked pretty icy.

Over on the East side of the massif the Aiguille du Tour is still being climbed from both Albert Premier and Trient Huts. Some big crevasses on the glacier but reasonable conditions on the peak. Par contre, the Aiguille du Chardonnet is not in good condition now and has not been receiving many / any ascents for a while due to the icy conditions on the classic ascent routes and the descent. The Petite Verte normal route is also in poor condition with icy slopes and loose dry rock exposed on ledges creating dangerous conditions, especially if busy. We climbed the rocky East Ridge of the Grands Montets which was an enjoyable and safer alternative.

Superb mountaineering position and fine solid granite on the East Ridge of Les Grands Montets with the Chardonnet and Argentiere beyond and above the Argentiere Glacier.

Overall many teams are preferring rocky routes in the middle or high mountains in preference over attempting snowy / mixed routes. The traverse of the Perrons above Vallorcine has been popular and we have had numerous teams enjoying quality Chamonix rock climbing at Plan Praz, Brevent, Aiguilles Rouges & Chamonix Aiguilles.

The highly scenic traverse of Les Perrons de Vallorcine

At the end of last week we enjoyed some good mountaineering in the Swiss Valais Alps with the traverse of the Fletschhorn & North Ridge of the Lagginhorn before descending a very dry normal route on the Lagginhorn back to the Weissmies Hut. The snow couloir / slopes on the West Face of the Fletschhorn were fine but lean and melting fast so will not last much longer this summer season.

Pleasant easy sunny scrambling on the North Ridge of the Lagginhorn during the fine traverse of the Fletchhorn & Lagginorn

Conditions were also reported as reasonable on the Weissmies – South ridge and the descent of the North Ridge, albeit with somewhat steeper and icier conditions than normal on the latter. A strong team reported retreating off the Rotgrat on the Alphubel due to thin climbing on the upper towers to access a bolt, tough windy weather and overall having a hard time!

Snow conditions in the Monte Rosa Massif seem better than in many other areas and whilst there is still heavy crevassing above and around the Gniffetti Hut there was a good track and all the classic easier summits on this Gressoney side were being climbed. The Dufourspitze itself was also being climbed in reasonable conditions albeit with the odd icy bit.