July has arrived with relatively good snow volume still in the high mountains of the Alps…and no actual heatwaves yet which is a good result in the context of recent summers.  Lots of good routes and peaks are being done around the Mont Blanc Massif and the northern Alps in general including the opening of the summer season with ascents of both the Matterhorn and Eiger.

Matt in good sood snow conditions descending from the summit of the Tour Ronde, with the Gran Paradiso in the far distance down the Italian Val d’Aosta. Photo Gav Pike. 

Our Mont Blanc teams ran in to some inclement weather at the end of last week and were diverted to some pretty inspiring plan Bs as the storms swept the valley and left some fresh snow above 3000m.   Our teams were out in both the Aiguilles Rouges, from the Midi and Skyway climbing the following routes, all in good conditions…

Matt on the summit of the Tour Ronde with the south side of Monte Bianco beyond. Photo Gav Pike.

The Tour Ronde was climbed by Matt and Gav via its SE Ridge from the Col Freshfield.  A steeper than it used to be start but following a good track in stiff snow, climbed via an early start from Torino Hut.

Matt cruising along the Cosmiques Arete with Mont Blanc du Tacul behind, Photo Gav Pike

We had numerous teams climbing the Cosmiques Arete, which is now pretty busy most days and worth getting either a very early or very late start for!   As well as nearby Arete Laurence and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal.  On the other side of the Vallée Blanche, which numerous teams are crossing still in good conditions (lowest track recommended as the safest passage through the crevasses in the central section) we have teams climbing on the Aiguilles d’Entreves and Aiguilles Marbrees.  Good snowy conditions on the glacier for the approach and return and dry summery conditions mainly on the ridges themselves.

Alpinism above the clouds, on the traverse of the Aiguilles d’Entreves. Climber is Nat, photo and guiding, Dave Sharpe.

Across on the Northern edge of the Mont Blanc Massif, and above the Chamonix Valley, we’ve had some very fun middle mountain rock days with guests honing their technical skills and acclimatising.  Our Becoming An Alpinist team were rock climbing and ropework training at Les Cheserys and Hao and Ross led their own way up the famous ‘Aiguillette’ under the watchful eye of guide Mike.

Hao & Ross on the summit of the Aiguillette. Photo Mike Thomas.

Teams have also climbed the SE Ridge of the Index, Traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues and Kev & Joe made an ascent of the fine tough 6a (6b for a couple of moves!?) Crackaouss rock climbing at the Brevent, before making their way up to the Albert Premier Hut via a lovely early evening stroll before their 0400 breakfast this morning and dawn approach to the fine South Ridge of the Aiguille Purtscheller:

Joe enjoying the high altitude rock climbing on the Aiguille Purtscheller South Ridge, Chamonix. Photo Kev Avery

Very enjoyable ascent of this route this morning and well done to Joe for arriving and getting straight up a high ish altitude Chamonix granite mountain route and making the most of the good weather…

Further afield around the Alps, teams have started climbing the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn from the Hornli Hut, which is now open.  By contrast, the Mittelleggi Hut on the Eiger is scheduled to open on the 7th July at the moment.  The South face of the Eiger has been well snowy this year and there was also a rock fall covering the access route from the Eismeer station.   Teams have climbed the Eiger via the South Ridge however as we did last year from Monchsjoch Hutte:

3 August 2022, The South Ridge Of The Eiger

We have also had teams climbing the Weissmies South Ridge, Mittelruck and have teams going in to climb the Lagginhorn, where conditions were reported as good and also to the Moiry Hut, where the hut reported teams have been doing the Grand Cornier and reporting good conditions on the glacier for the approach, although that could evolve rapidly.

Our Becoming An Alpinist team are heading to Moiry Hut tomorrow to enjoy the brilliant variety of PD-AD Ridges available above the Moiry Glacier and valley:

North Ridge of the Aiguille de la Lé above the Cabane de Moiry

Lots of other good 4000m peaks being done in classic summer conditions around the Swiss Valais and over on the Italian side of the main alpine watershed.  Conditions on the Gran Paradiso remain good and we have 3 places available on our group course starting and finishing in Chamonix next week, 10-12 July and more details here:

Climb The Gran Paradiso 4061m

High on Gran Paradiso, with the summit just a stones throw – and enjoyable mixed rocky scramble away

We still have a few places available on summer / early autumn mountaineering courses this year, see below, and still have some availability for private guiding – rock climbing in Chamonix – please get in touch with your dates and aims if we can help.

Good climbing & good training,

Rob. 

Alpine Summer 2023 Mountaineering & Training Courses

Full team on the summit of the Gran Paradiso on our late June course.