Rock Climbing In Chamonix

Guidebooks & Topos for Chamonix Based Rock Climbing

Some of these French & Italian guide books are available in an English version

• Crag Climbs in Chamonix, Vamos, Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard
• The Aiguilles Rouges 1, Michel Piola
• Mont Blanc Massif – Envers des Aiguilles, Michel Piola
• Escalades Choisies – Mont Blanc & Aiguilles Rouges, Montagne Evasion, Jean Louis Laroche & Florence Lelong
• ‘6a Max’, Savoie et Haute Savoie, Oros, Philippe Brass & Guillaume Vallot
• Schweiz Plaisir WEST, Edition Filidor, Jurg Von Kanel
• Vallee de l’Arve, Gilles Brunot
• Escalade Massif Bornes Aravis,
• Arrampicata Sportiva Valle d’Aosta, Mani Nude

Superb atmosphere, views and climbing in early autumn in the Chamonix Valley

 Thanks again for a great experience in Chamonix. Great instructions, guidance and advice. Thanks to your help we achieved exactly what we set out to do, and will now be more confident doing alpine rock routes under our own steam. It was great to put all of the training from the first day into practice during the ridge climb on day 2. Also, thanks for all your more general advice on rock climbing and suitable alpine routes in the Chamonix area.

Tom, Chamonix Alpine Rock, July 2010

Book A Half Day – Full Day Or Multiple Days Chamonix Based Rock Climbing

 

Tim descending the steep grass (with ice-axe!) below the beautiful South Pillar of the Croix de Fer above Sallanches in the Arve Valley, Haute Savoie, French Alps. The line of the actual climb takes the shady right hand side of the pillar for roughly the first 3rd, the spur itself for the middle 3rd and the sunny left wall in the final section to top out at the actual Croix.

Chamonix Soft Rock Climbing Article & Ideas

Read our article below dedicated to enjoying the less extreme side of Chamonix rock climbing.  Lots of suggestions for single and multi pitch routes from 4s up to 6a, with great climbing and stunning views…

Chamonix Rock Climbing Photo Galleries

Chamonix Rock Climbing – Notes & Current Conditions Info

13 October 2026, Tichodrome 6a & Terry 5b+, Rhone Valley

We returned to the Rhone to enjoy the warm and dry climbing conditions after recent snow events higher in the mountains.  Conditions were great with a chilly start from Dorenaz before the sun arrived at the base of Tichodrome as we were climbing the first pitch at about 0945.  After that a nice combination of sun and breeze to the fine grassy top out ledge and interesting forest path to walk off.

5 September 2026, Météo Rire, 6a, 160m, Salvan, Rhone Valley

Lovely atmosphere climbing in the early autumn sun above the magic woods of Salvan with sweeping topographic views into the Rhone Valley.

The sunny walls of Meteo Rire above the forests of Salvan and the Rhone Valley below.

The climbing is pretty good too!  Crimpy walls and juggy aretes on the Swiss modern classic of ‘Meteo Rire’, 6a.

23 August 2026, Petit Clocher du Portalet

Brilliant day climbing this famous granite spire on the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc Massif with a night at the hospitable Orny Hut afterwards.  A classic alpine rock day!

Dave enjoying the post climb satisfaction having made an ascent of the inspiring Petit Clocher de Portalet

The route combines an interesting and moderately technical approach walk (!) with an exposed but quality scramble then some pleasant pitches of 4 with a superb exposed finalé up the summit ridge with great rock and 6a climbing.  An efficient abseil descent was made back to the scrambling route with 5 rapps down Chic Cheque Choc.

Read the full report on our News page here:

22 August 2026, Frison Roche & Crackoukass

Classic Chamonix 6a Rock!  And a refreshing change to have cold hands climbing and some fresh snow in the mountains. Cracking middle mountain multi pitch rock day climbing Frison Roche, Crackoukass and even a bonus pitch at the Brevent crag which, as always, was working hard to maintain its reputation for sandbagged grades!

The top of the short but technical and pumpy 6b optional pitch on Crakoukass

Pilier de Gauche, 6a+ at the Brevent crag

The steep and pumpy corner crack / chimney on Frison Roche with the mist rising up from the Chamonix Valley below.

19 August 2026,Piz Badile North Ridge & Traverse

A brilliant mountain rock climb and mountaineering day done as an action packed 2 day trip from Chamonix but 3 or more days recommended!

The remarkable combination of superb climbing in a stunning position on a huge mountain ridge. A real classic!

The north ridge has lots of quality limbing mainly in the 3s and 4s but with a couple of pitches around 5.  But the main challenge is more of an overall big physical mountain day and maintaining efficiency and momentum all the way up, over and down on to the lovely Italian side of the range.  Full report on our news page here:

Early August 2026, Cacao Girls, Gietroz

We made an early summer start to avoid the main effects of the sun and found pleasant fresh conditions on the first couple of pitches.  Things warmed up quickly with the arrival of the sun but there are bits of shade on some belays and a breeze kicked in making it almost pleasant!

Early start for summer shade on Cacao Girls. Not quite early enough but some good shade on some belays and breeze made it ok!

After a sandwich in the shady forest there were pleasant conditions on the upper pitches, although the steep wall to start the 6b pitch is always hard!

The crux pitch of the upper section of Cacao Girls, with the hard section above the ledge down below.

We rapped off after this crux pitch (1 clean rapp on 2 x 50m ropes but with plenty of spare rope) as travel commitments dictated an early finish and it felt a lot quicker to rap from here and walk down the gorge rather than topping out and walking off that way.

Early August 2026, Fraise des Boatchs, 5a, Grande Floria

This is the easiest of the multi pitch routes on the Grande Floria and whilst it has some good rock and steady climbing, there is quite a bit of loose rock around on the ledges and we wouldn’t be rushing to join a queue of other teams heading up this way.

Grande Floria ambiance with the lac and still some mid summer snow below.

Perhaps for this reason, the anchors are not fully set up for abseiling on and it would be preferable to either walk over to the abseil line on the left, or just walk off.  We did the former initially but as it started to rain, we switched to the latter whilst we still could!

Late July 2026, Y’a de l’urgo dans l’air, 7a+, Balme, Arve Valley

The near road side multi pitch climbing at Balme in the Arve Valley gives an impressive ratio of quality climbing with a tiny approach for a big crag ambiance!

Y’a de l’urgo dans l’air gives 6 pitches of quality climbing with plenty of technical hard sections.  Welcome to Balme!

Y’a de l’urgo dans l’air, Balme 7a+, 180m

The crux pitch is sustained, powerful and technical, and a little polished in places but it’s a great route and well worth the 10 minute approach walk!!

More photos and route info on our dedicated route gallery here:

Late July 2026, Aiguillette & Les Chéserys

A fairly rapid 50 minute walk takes you to the base of this famous little Chamonix pinnacle!  With this approach route being one of the Tour du Mont Blanc variations, and at this time of year, you are unlikely to be alone!  But it’s well worth it to enjoy the fine climbing, good rock and stunning position climbing the Aiguillette.  We climbed the normal route first, which is a steady 4C but bold unless you take some trad gear for the first section in particular.

The Rebuffat Terray, 5c, on the shady north wall of the Aiguillette, a fine short pitch to an amazing little summit!

Then the more direct line back up to the summit takes the fine shady wall that many teams abseil down.  With a steep start and finish this is a brilliant 5c with plenty of bolts once you get going.

A little further back down the path on the main Cheserys crag lies the superb starting slab of ‘Voie Blanche’.   This is an impressive piece of rock and provides a sustained first pitch with enjoyable delicate slab moves and spaced bolts.  Quite good value for 5b and an interesting contrast to the steeper 5c on the Aiguillette.

June 2026, Voie Câline, 4b, Rocher des Mottets, Chamonix Valley

Something a little / a lot easier than our last entry, albeit much longer!  Someone said this would be 19 pitches if you pitched it all – that would be good training, for something!  But pretty time consuming and it’s a real pleasure to take a large rack of quickdraws, and a couple of micro traxions, and move together up this long but fun and satisfying easy climb.

Guide Jonny Baird on the last pitch of Voie Caline before the pleasant stroll to the very pleasant buvette des Mottets

Cuddle climb starts with a longish approach walk from the Les Bois area in the Chamonix Valley and passes the base of the Via Corda en route.   There is more sustained climbing on this route once you start though and a series of easy pitches lead in to a long series of easy angled slabs, near walking in places but still the bolts keep coming, before a few slightly steeper pitches to finish.   Mainly moving together and with a little pitching in places and once we had joined the peleton in front, a couple of hours was plenty to finish this fun scrambling / climbing / walking journey from the valley to the Mottets.  Could be combined with other options around here to give a nice long alpine movement and ropework type day.

June 2026, Premier de Corvée, 7a, Brevent, Chamonix

A magnificent 4 pitch trad – sport route on the East Face of the Brevent.   If you like your cracks steep and sustained and in a stunning setting, this one is not to be missed.   ‘Only’ 4 pitches but with plenty of great climbing…As the Rockfax guide says, ‘A great day out!’

Report and info on our News page here:

June 2026, Les Chéserys : Un Père Noël pour Lucy, 6a

Early June is still early enough to be before the big UTMB trail rush so there was a pleasant relaxed atmosphere walking in to Les Cheserys with great views across THE valley to the still snowy north faces…

The lovely walk in to Les Cheserys, with great views across the Chamonix Valley to the north faces of the Mont Blanc Massif

Despite fairly recent rain, the cliffs were almost entirely dry and a pleasure to climb on.  Un Père Noël pour Lucy gives fun slabby climbing lower down to warm up on with only 1 more technical 5c move through the little steepening after the traverse on pitch 2.

Quality 6a climbing on the upper section of Un Père Noël pour Lucy

The real quality climbing starts with the excellent sustained and delicate 4th pitch.  Thin but high quality climbing on great rock.  No real crux but lots of nice moves and scanning out the best footholds.

Pitch 5 continues with good rock and steeper climbing with some fun moves up the headwall before rapping back down the route for 2 pitches, then off to the ground more directly on the 3rd pitch with plenty of rope left on 2x50m.

The hail arrived a bit earlier than forecast…and we headed down to sunnier climes and the steep roofs at Servoz!..

June 2026, Servoz

As the hail arrived, we bailed down the valley and took shelter under the roofs of the roadside crag at Servoz, although there wasn’t much hail or rain left by the time we had got down there.  Just plenty of dry rock with well chalked and pretty obvious holds…but you have to start pulling on them as the crag rears up and out to it’s full height and steepness!

Sebastian enjoying the position and steep and powerful climbing to come on ‘Perds Pas les Pédales’ 6c at Servoz crag in the lower Chamonix Valley

We climbed the big classic on the left of the crag, ‘Surbac à Bras, now 6b which is fairer than it’s old slight sandbag 6a grade.  It’s a long pitch from the ground but the first 2/3rds are pretty easy and the holds keep coming after that – you just have to keep trucking and not think about it too much!

Surbac à Bras, 6b on the left of the main steep wall at Servoz crag

Moving slightly right we did some multi pitch training to get up to the final steep pitch of ‘Perds Pas Les Pédales’ which is an impressively steep 6c with big jugs to get going but it’s still pumpy.  Then the short headwall is less steep but with some more fingery crimpy climbing.  Very good fun and a 3* pitch.

Perds pas les Pédales, 6c on the right and the last moves of ‘Les Bras m’en tombent’ 6a+ on the left.

May 2026, Zebra 6c, 160m, Balme, Arve Valley

Tricky start to the 3rd pitch on Zebra.

Despite the warm weather, good cool and shady morning conditions can be found on the highly accessible west facing cliffs at Balme.  There are not so many good multi pitch crags as accessible as this one!   The first pitch has a very hard move if you go left by the bolt to make a mini traverse.  Apparently climbing up the little wall on the right, on to the arete and up from there gives easier but bolder climbing.

Intense, short and technical climbing on the first of the two 6c pitches

An excellent sustained 2nd pitch follows and this provides the only big sustained pitch of the route, although every pitch has some kind of technical difficulty, especially the two 6c pitches!

Useful fixed ropes to return to the 2nd belay on Zebra – from here you can abseil back to the bottom of the route on 2 x 50m ropes.

We rapped the route in 4 abseils, 3 small ones to get going and a long last one back to the bags at the start of the climb.  The fixed rope is helpful in traversing back across to reach the 2nd belay and doing this might help getting the ropes stuck in the dead tree of a more direct line.

May 2026, Diretta al Banano 5c+, Machaby / Arnad, Val d’Aosta

A lovely trip up the golden walls of Machaby with Dave before the rain came in later.  It had been wet previously too but the route had dried fast and the morning shade followed by sun and breeze gave enjoyable conditions.

Banano Diretta at Arnad. A very enjoyable journey up the golden walls of Machaby

There is a stiff steep slab move on the first pitch but it’s technically all a lot easier after that – so it’s worth persevering with!  Bolted well on the harder moves but leaves some big gaps between bolts on the easier sections.

Worth taking a bit of cash for coffee money in the village at the top as there are no card payments.  Nice walk and scramble back down joining the base of the crag with the option to do some more first pitches, if your rope is long enough!

Early August 2025, Chamonix Summer Rock Road Trip – To Wendenstocke

Wendenstocke has quite a reputation amongst alpine rock climbers for its widely spaced protection and exposed and intricate approaches, often up steep grass!   But it also has a reputation for its wonderful steep limestone walls and beautiful setting.  We went to find out which would leave the stronger emotions after climbing one of the longer routes there, Caminando, 7a+, and, at nearly 500m long, a higher wall than some of the more famous rock north walls like the Tre Cime Laverado in the Dolomites.  Check out our full report below to find out how it went…

Kev Avery on the photogenic 6th pitch of Caminando leading up to the niche at the base of the impressive Klagemauer crux wall. The peaks of the high Eastern Bernese Oberland beyond.

Mid July 2025, Chamonix Summer Provence Rock Road Trip…

Although there is already plenty of superb rock climbing around the Chamonix Valley, sometimes it’s good to take a road trip…especially if it’s raining in the Alps!

Tony high on the crux and penultimate pitch, F7a of Série Limitée on the Duc cliff in the stunning Gorges du Verdon, Provence

‘The worlds best crag’ of Ceuse is less than 4 hours from Chamonix and the remarkable Verdon Gorge less than 6.  On this road trip we got some superb single and multi pitch climbing at both venues with some stunningly good quality rock and climbing.  See our 2 reports below for more info and photos….

A big pitch from the ground on the superb ‘Grande Face’ at Ceuse.

29 May 2025, Copacabana, 6b, Tours d’Areu, Arve Valley

An idyllic middle mountain alpine rock day with a fun and efficient approach via electric mountain bike and a lovely mountain hut base camp for café on the way up and beer and chocolate mousse on the way down.  The climbing was pretty good too!   Photos, captions and route info on our Aravis rock climbing gallery page here:

Great views across to the remarkable steep yellowy orange wall on the 5th Tower of Areu above Sallanches in the Arve Valley.  Climbers probably on Aguirre, 7b.

16 May 2025, “The Good Wizard” 6b(+), Barberine

Whilst Barberine can look a little grassy, mossy and ‘foresty’ from the road, and even from the base of the crag, once you are on the boiler plate granite slabs and walls, you know it’s going to be quality climbing.  We climbed the first 3 pitches of Magicien d’Oz, 5b, 6a, 5a+ to the base of the main climbing above the cable terrace.  As there was a team on the pitch above we opted for the harder line to the right – Bon Voyage.

The superb granite slabs of Barberine with Mont Blanc and the Chamonix Valley beyond.

This has some high quality slabby wall climbing with thin moves on great rock with equally good protection.  After another good long 5c pitch we re-joined Magicien d’Oz for the excellent series of 6a-6b pitches above.   Very enjoyable climbing and great conditions today in the sun but with a constant breeze.   We walked off the crag and enjoyed the tour of various other brilliant looking bits of Gietroz crags including the descent of the gorge.

Magicien d’Oz, Barberine, gallery here. 

13 April  2025, Servoz, Chamonix Cragging – Staying Dry In The Rain!

It takes a little motivation to push through the rain and wet first pitch at Servoz, but it’s worth the effort as much of the upper crag stayed dry today in pretty persistent rain.  We climbed ‘Les Bras m’en Tombent’ 6a+, Surbrac à Bras, 6b, Prends la cinquante, 5c and the stiff ‘ Ca Béne, 6b+ over on the right.  This latter has a stiff and steep final few bolts on positive holds, until they’re not.  Hard if the full direct is taken and a lot easier with a little help from the fine crack on the right!

The steep and powerful final moves on ‘Ca Béne’ on the right hand side at Servoz. Solid 6c for the direct or 6b+ with a little help from the crack on the right!

18 Feb 2025, Balme, Arve Valley Limestone

The Arve Valley fog bank dissipated around 1130 which coincided well with the arrival of the sun.  The first pitch was still a big chilly, then it was near t-shirt weather until the sun dipped to the horizon at around 1600.

Kev setting off on the lovely rough golden limestone of Réalité non ordinaire, on the left of the cave at Balme

We climbed the first pitches of Réalité non ordinaire, 6c, and then Grand Bleu, 7c, on either side of the entrance to the cave at Balme.  The former is a good warm up, if you’re already warmed up!  Lovely crozzled clean rough rock with a steady intro to a stiff fingery pull up a clean wall followed by some more powerful moves on black soapy flakes.  The latter is a stern test of finger strength (and skin!) on positive but sometimes tiny sharp crimps with some run-out sections but all on good rock.

11 Feb 2025, Pierre à Voix, Sallanches, Arve Valley Limestone

Nice sunny & warm conditions today at Pierre à Voix above Sallanches in the Arve Valley.  The trees that came down several years ago means both the crag and much of the base of the crag are in the sun which is a welcome winter treat despite the 1000m+ altitude.   The sun tracks round and even the far side gets some sun later in the afternoon.  Most of the routes were dry although there is an early season slightly friable feel with plenty of dampness not far away in the cracks.   We climbed ‘Puzzle’ 7a+ which has a slightly awkward first 3 bolts on slopes / undercuts before leading to steeper but more positive climbing.  There is an interesting slappy crux followed by a few more bolts of power endurance on quite good holds…if you know where they are!

Mountain Guide Gareth enjoying the post climb ‘pump’ at Pierre à Voix in the Arve Valley with the Mont Blanc Massif beyond.

The sun dropped down beneath the horizon of the hills to the West at around 1530 and it was soon pretty chilly right after!

Sept 2024, Les Gaillands – Classic Chamonix 6a Rock

As part of our ‘rest day’ in Chamonix, we did lots of rock climbing training, single and multi pitch and the use of ‘guides’ belay plates like the Black Diamond ATC guide or Petzl Reverso.  The (big) benefits as well as the 2 main issues in using this style of belay plate direct off the anchor.

Dave getting stuck in to the meant of the famous ‘Le Diedre Terray’ 6a on the Petit Gailland. A long easy approach brings you to a strenuous layback up the corner crack. Brilliant!

We also did lots of climbing – so not a great rest day – but we didn’t do much walking!  We started with the fine L’Arete Integrale on the left side of the main Gaillands crag.  This fine soaring ridge line has an easy start and easy finish (in a great position) but a cruxy central section with some technical moves which can also be avoided dodging around to the right and joining the arete a little higher up.

L’Arete Integrale. The lovely soaring ridge on the left side of Le Grand Gaillands with a short tricky section which can be by-passed by going right around the arete and then re-joining higher up. Great positions either way.

The ‘Toit Direct’ 6a+ provides another pleasant / warm up approach to a tricky move but this time it’s less technical and more powerful.  The best holds are up and left of the roof and the polished footholds are good to if you remember to use them whilst pulling through the roof!  This gets the hardest grade of these 3 classics but is arguably actually the easiest of the 3, depending on your preferences for style!

Le Toit Direct 6a+ (but quite soft at the grade) with a similar styled 5c just to the right. The central L’Echelle area. Worth noting there are some nice new bolted cracks just to the left of these routes which provide good opportunities for placing trad gear, with the back up of bolt runners along the way!

The Diedre Terray 6a on the right hand side of the main crag is a fine line, again with a long easy approach but it packs in the strenuous laybacking once the corner crack itself is engaged.  It’s steep but there are just enough positive edges in the crack, small footholds on the faces, and plenty of bolts!

The lovely ‘roctober’ season approaches in Chamonix, please get in touch if you would like to arrange some training and guiding for Chamonix Rock climbing.

18 Sept 2024, Atome Crochue, Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix

The post storm warmer weather had returned and much, but not all of the fresh snow lying in the Aiguilles Rouges had melted back.  Atome Crochue, 6b gets the sun from around mid morning and climbing conditions were really pleasant today in the sun and light breeze and we were glad of our mini haul bag to pack away all our excessive layers of clothing!

Dave below the impressive tower of the Crochues with the route ‘Atome Crochues’ taking the steep pillars and walls on the right hand side

Although only the steeper third and fifth pitches on this route get the 6b grade, many will find the thinner moves on the first 6a+ pitch more technical and overall more demanding than the lovely juggy upper walls and cracks.  A great route and a fun early autumn outing with Dave. We descended the Couloir des Crochues which was fine today with only a few very small avoidable snow patches and steady easy down climbing.

15 Sept 2024, Miles Devisse at Pissevache

As Rhone Valley rock climbing conditions were so good yesterday, we were back early this morning with a more adventurous approach from the idylic Swiss village of Salvan Les Granges, through the magical woods and into the base of the big shining walls at Pissevache, to climb the route Miles Dévisse.

Dave on the thin upper slabs of Miles Devisse, Pissevache

In theory this route gets the grade of 6a+ with a point or 2 of aid, but in reality a grade of 6b is more realistic as several of the 6a+ pitches are really 6a++!   But it’s a fine varied route with lots of sustained climbing on and a good adventure up the granite walls of Pissevache, above the Rhone Valley, above the Motorway, but tucked away in it’s own world up there with great views south to a snowy Grand Combin.

14 Sept 2024, Si C’est Elle at Mieville & Dorenavent at Dorenaz

Continuing snowy conditions in Chamonix saw a return to the Rhone Valley, on the sunny rive gauche at Mieville in the morning and equally sunny rive droite at Dorenaz in the afternoon.  Great conditions with a stiff but relatively warm Rhone Valley hairdryer wind blowing.

Very good sustained climbing, 6b on the 3rd pitch of Si c’est elle at Mieville

The 3rd and 4th pitches provide the sustained key passages of ‘Si c’est Elle’ at Mieville with really good climbing on fine rock, less mossy than it looks, in the main.  The 4th pitch is a little overgraded in Schweiz Plaisir at 6b+ as it feels easier than the sustained steep wall with small but positive holds below, also 6b.

Sustained and crimpy wall climbing on the big first pitch of Le Monstre, 6b at Dorenaz, Rhone Valley, Rive Droite

Talking of sustained 6b, the first 2 pitches of Le Monstre can be run together to make a demanding start to the route with a bouldery departure and crimpy endurance wall above.  It’s a solid pitch with easier but very good climbing to come on the 2 above.  For the walk off we traversed hard right, looking out from the crag and did a bit of bush whacking before picking up the main path.

10 Sept 2024, Si c’est elle at Mieville & e Monstre at Dorenaz

The warm low altitude sun and Rhone Valley hair dryer effect did us proud today with dry crags after a full day and night of torrential rain.  Pilipili at Mieville and Dorenavent at Dorenaz both give fine multi pitch climbing, 1 hours drive from Chamonix, and both have stiff 6b+ roof cruxes to negotiate high on the routes.

Emily on the lovely 6b wall on Pilipili with the tough 6b+ crux to come on the pitch above

Mieville is rapidly accessed, convenient and well bolted (gut+ on the Schweiz Plaisir topo rating). The upper 6b wall is a real sustained climbers treat and the 6b+ rooved groove above is somewhat fiercer!

Emily crimping through the steep 6b+ roof crux on Dorenavent at Dorenaz

Dorenaz has a more adventurous feel with a longer (25min) steep and rough walk in and lovely Tichodromes playfully soaring about around the crag.  The topo sign at the base of the walk suggests walking off rather than abseiling and this seems like good advice.  We were glad to have trainers at the top of the route!  Great views across the Rhone and beyond to the Grand Combin and sustained wall climbing with several steeper overhanging sections on pretty good holds apart from the crimpy exit from the crux roof, see above.

6 August 2024, Swiss Route Into O Sole Mio on The ‘Grand Cap’

Any ascent of the Grand Capucin is likely to provide a memorable experience and with it’s stunning soaring appearance, beautiful orange granite and superb climbing, it’s one of the unmissable elements of the Chamonix rock climbing experience.

Tony abseiling down the south face of the Grand Capucin. Stunning, but intimidating!

Perhaps the easiest of the routes to reach the summit is the combination of the Swiss Route and O Sole Mio and here we describe an ascent of that route in good conditions…

31 July 2024, Grand Capucin & Tacul Satellites Rock Climbing

Last nights storm had left both hail on the ledges and wet streaks in the cracks, grooves and streaks across some walls on the awesome granite walls of the Grand Cap this morning.  The Grand Cap is intimidating enough without a detiorating forecast and wet rock, so we descended further down the Vallée Blanche to climb on the Pointe Adolphe Rey.

The Francesco Terrace at the base of the Grand Cap with the Aiguillettes Couloir on the left.

There was a good track going in to the base of the Roi de Siam with access looking better than many recent summers.  Likewise access to the Voie Salluard was straight forward.  The original start to the Bettembourg-Thivierge however – whilst the snow reached right up against the rock – the numerous bolts start quite high up giving some thin climbing straight off the snow!

19 July 2024, Nabot Leon, Pilier Rouge, Aiguille de Blaitière

A route on the granite in the Chamonix Aiguilles always feels like an adventure and often one where ‘easy pitches’ aren’t always that easy!  Despite Nabot Léon being perhaps the easiest of the fine collections of routes on the Pilier Rouge, it still packs in plenty of climbing.  Slabs, cracks, grooves…

The rappels off Nabot Léon – back down Marjorette Thatcher

It has been nearly 30 years since my last ascent of this route so memories were a little hazy – but the lovely green slab with the soaring walls above is easy to remember and is still as good as ever…as are all the other pitches.  The route finding takes some diligence and we used 3 different topos for cross reference – and still managed to stray briefly off route at one point!   This is essentially a trad route and it’s worth taking plenty of cams and nuts – and quick draws!  It’s also worth remembering that the few bolts that do help protect the bold sections are indeed – bolts – whilst the neighbouring routes are mainly (entirely!?) on glue-ins.

From the final belay on the route we rapped down Marjorette Thatcher with the rope only getting stuck 5m of easy ground above the terrace – so we’ll take that!   We used crampons for the approach and descent of the main snow field leading up to the Col below the end of the Lames Fontaines – but after that it’s worth removing crampons as any remaining snow patches are small and easily avoided.

17 July 2024, ‘Into The Wild’, Bérade Valley

Whilst the mid summer sun was shining – there was not only a breeze but a cool ‘fraicheur’ from the roaring snow melt fuelled rivers and streams of the Bérade Valley.  ‘Into The Wild’ provided not only some high quality climbing on lovely rough gneiss but also the opportunity to journey into this beautiful middle mountain arena.

Into The Wild, top of the crux 6a+ pitch, Bérade Valley

The water running across the approach paths suggested the cliffs may be wet too but the sunny aspect and hair dryer breeze meant that the few places that were still a bit damp after recent storms were soon blow dryed and, overall, conditions were great – warm breezy sun rock!

After the initial easy warm up pitch the climbing is sustained for the next 7 pitches – from 5c to 6a+ but actually all pretty similar and just more or less sustained.  Whilst the very fine big slab centrepiece 6a+ pitch is the most aesthetic there are more athletic moves on the steep starts to the 6a and 5c pitches. Lots of good climbing to the top of pitch 8 where it becomes more broken and we abseiled back down the route from there, albeit with a more direct variation over the last 2 pitches. This does go over a large roof and in to a somewhat vegetated area with lots of broken rock.  Our ropes didn’t get stuck but the team descending behind us deviated on to the lower pitches of Été Indien which looked to provide a better rappel line down smoother rock.

More photos and route info here:

24 June 2024, L’Aiguillete and Les Cheserys, Classic Chamonix Valley Rock Climbing

Fun climbing with a magnificent view.  That’s what you get on the ‘Aiguillette d’Argentière’ on the Cheserys slabs accessed from the popular walkers path from near the Col des Montets towards Lac Blanc.  The right hand arete of the peak, as seen below, gives the lovely easy ‘Voie Normale’ at about 4c and the direct route up the face, Rebuffat / Terray’ gives a steeper 5c.

The ‘Incontournable’ Aiguillette in the upper Chamonix Valley with the Drus – Verte – Chardonnet behind going from right to left.

We also climbed the Fee des Druides, a multi pitch 5c route on the slabs behind the Aiguillette.  This has a good stiff 5c first pitch but with less good climbing above and a weird, awkward and possibly rock fall affected last pitch which might be worth avoiding.

Much better, further down the Cheserys slabs, is ‘Dune’, a thin 3 pitch wall climb up to 6a+ on very good rock.  Highly recommended and with 3 pretty direct abseils back down the route.

High on the very good ‘Dune’ at Les Cheserys, Chamonix Valley

19 June 2024, Pyramide du Tacul East Ridge

A first lift up the Skyway and night at the Torino Hut gave a good long day for our Chamonix rock climbing, Matterhorn training and Dufourspitze team to embrace the high altitude granite rock climbs above the Vallee Blanche on the classis East Ridge of the Pyramide du Tacul.

Jurgen, Chen & John enjoying the high altitude granite rock ambiance above the glittering glaciers of the Vallée Blanche

The approach is in great condition with high snow volume giving good glacier travel options and an easier approach than is often the case on to the base of the route.  The team climbed the first 6 pitches, past the crux before abseiling back to the glacier and walking out to the Torino Hut, in the rain!

12 June 2024, Arve Valley Hard Limestone – Piere à Voix & Doran

It’s not every day we have guests that have climbed F8b+ and bouldered to V14!  Connor was in Chamonix and wanted to experience some of the local hard rock climbing.  This suggested a trip down the Arve Valley to some of it’s hard limestone crags and this worked well for getting out of the damp & cloudy morning in Chamonix too!

‘Diffamation’, 7a, an excellent wall and flake climb at Doran with sustained athletic climbing leading into a technical crux near the top…

It was inspiring to watch Connor climb in his precise yet still fun and dynamic style and he made a fine onsight of the tough..(and hard to onsight) ‘Mon Ami Pierot’ 7a+.  As well as ascents of Bouli 6b+, also at Pierre à Voix and ‘Le Monde Annulé’, 7b+ and Diffamation, 7a at Doran.  More photos, info and inspiration on our dedicated Arve Valley rock climbing gallery here:

11 June 2024, Voie Jaune, 4c Les Cheserys

The snowy, cloudy & windy weather saw our climb Mont Blanc team take to the crags and after training and a warm up at Les Gaillands and the Flegere Via Ferrata, Chris and Phil got out multi pitching on the satisfying multi pitch route ‘Voie Jaune’ at Les Cheserys.  As you can see, there is still a little snow at the base of the crag but access to this route is fine and there was a pleasant middle mountain atmosphere and temperature with the mile early summer weather and sunny aspect.

Phil & Chris enjoying the middle mountain ambiance, good climbing and stunning views on the Voie Jaune at Les Cheserys in the upper Chamonix Valley. Photo Neil Hitchings

Early June 2024, Sunny High Altitude Rock Drying Out!

After a very snowy spring season in the high mountains, with lots of snow on the ledges and even icicles down the routes, things are starting to dry out and teams have been enjoying decent early summer conditions on the classic South face of the Midi and Eperon des Cosmiques.  Snow volume on the glaciers is currently superb meaning that access to these high altitude rock climbs should remain generally good for the first part of the summer at least.

In the middle mountains of the Aiguilles Rouges, the Flegere left is now open and the Via Feratta Evettes can be done without ice axe or crampons being required, but there is still plenty of snow on the approach slopes to the climbs above the Index.  The same is likely to be true at Brevent for a while, with the lift opening there scheduled for June 15th.

Early October 2023, Luxis, Pt d’Aujon, Sallanches

Another good adventure on the fine little big limestone walls visible from Sallanches, this time above the Varan Hut and just right of the famous south pillar of the Croix de Fer.

29 September 2023, X-Scream Limite, Tours d’Areu, Sallanches

A hard and quite bold route on the highly visible and appealing grey & orange limestone walls above the Refuge Doran in the alpine meadows above Sallanches in the Arve Valley.

6 September 2023, Midi South Face & Papillons Arete

Brian went on from his fine hard warm up route at Brevent, see below, to climb 2 other brilliant Chamonix classics, the South Face of the Midi and Papillons arete.  At 6a max both routes are easier than Poeme a Lou but with more altitude and the mountain granite factor.

Brian on the golden granite on the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi, Photo Gareth Hughes

4 September 2023, Poeme à Lou, Brevent

Lovely warm, dry, rough & sunny rock on the south face of the Brevent and the high wispy clouds also meant it wasn’t too hot.  We climbed the fine sustained white gneiss walls of Poeme à Lou, in 5 good pitches, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6c, 5c.

Brian on the white southern walls of le Brevent and the brilliant sustained climbing on Poeme a Lou

The route is equipped with runners and bolts although there are some run outs in places especially after the crux 6c section and the very top, which is easy, but potentially pretty loose and a few small – medium cams might be welcomed by some!  Whilst the fixed rope keeps the overall grade at a more consistent 6a / 6b, climbing the crux section is a bit odd with the fixed rope in the way and really only 1 short 6c move across the steep wall before it’s possible to bridge across the groove.  But the theme of the route is lovely sustained wall climbing on clean rough rock and lots of small but often positive crimps and footholds.  Great climbing and nice to have the route to ourselves today as all other teams on the nearby Piola route and Fin de Babylon.

30 August 2023, Cacao Girls…and it’s variants!

Despite the heavy rain and cool conditions over the last few days, Cacao Girls was mainly dry this morning although there were a few rather damp cracks about, but fortunately not on any of the crux sections.   Numerous teams had the same idea of lower altitude rock with a sunny aspect so the start of the route was quite busy with a few teams joining at the base of the 2nd pitch and various teams doing alternative pitches.  We climbed the right hand line on the 3rd and 4th pitch and then followed bolts and a fixed rope back to the main route.   The climbing here is generally not quite as good as the original and it’s more of a busy day alternative.  In trying to take a short cut moving left back on to the main route too early, one other team caused some serious rockfall here, so it’s important to stay to the bolted line which takes solid rock and then a short hand line section across left.

Sonya reaching the belay at the top of the crux pitch on the upper tier. With the strenuous climbing down below, but another little technical move across the wall to reach this edge and fine position above the forest.

On the last pitch before the main terrace, and optional early finish, we climbed the final 6a pitch of Autoroute Blanche which provides a nice sustained groove with small footholds, but they keep coming and it’s not got any harder moves than the 6a pitches lower down Cacao Girls and is arguably less fierce than the ‘harder than it looks’ flake cracks on Cacao Girls to the left.

The upper chimney above the terrace was only a little wet and mostly avoidable whereas the steep crux crack above that was still strenuous and not avoidable!  The final pitch is no pushover either for those with tired arms and a bit of dampness in the cracks.

16 August 2023, Kohlman Route, Aiguille du Midi South Face

Max and Kev did a shorter route today after yesterdays big outing on the Grand Cap, see below, the Voie Kohlman on the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi which offers a good and quieter alternative to the classic south face route of the Rebuffat.

Max enjoying the fine granite flakes and cracks of the Voie Kohlman on the Midi South Face, Chamonix. Photo Kev Avery

Access to this route from the glacier is currently fine but the glacier has dropped at the start of the Rebuffat route to the left so that looks a bit trickier now but still plenty of teams doing it.

15 August 2023, Swiss Route, Grand Capucin

Well done to our American guest Max and British guide Kev, who made a fine job of climbing the Swiss Route on the Grand Capucin today, 300m+ 6b+/A0.  A mega classic on wonderful Mont Blanc Massif granite and done in good style by a strong team.

Max enjoying the wonderful granite, views and quality of climbing high on the Swiss Route on the Grand Capucin. Chamonix. Photo Kev Avery.

11 August 2023, Papillons Arête, Plan de l’Aiguille, Chamonix

It’s been a while since we did this Chamonix classic and it was good to re-discover what a great route it is!  The numerous teams soon dispersed and we found our own space in our own rhythm, enjoying the granite cracks and wall, moving together and with some harder climbing on the 5c / 6a pitches.  We did not need ice axe or crampons for the descent although we did do a very short easy abseil on to the snow at the end but the slope is small, not very steep and the snow had softened by lunch time to descend ok in trainers.  More info and photos on the route here:

The first of the two crux pitches has a memorable step across the void and thin wall section (with the option to pull on the gear if it all seems a bit too thin!)

9 August 2023, Cacao Girls, Chatelard – Giétroz

380m of fine fun sustained sunny climbing on the modern classic to the eastern end of the Chamonix Valley and just over the Swiss border at Chatelard…Cacao Girls.  Fully bolted, lots of good climbing, several escape route options along the way but a park bench at the top for those that go the distance, with an interesting scramble off followed by a pleasant walk.  Not to be missed….

4 August 2023, Hotel California & The Clocher, Plan Praz, Brevent, Chamonix

Quite chilly on the crags of the Aiguilles Rouges today and we were glad to be just below the cloud base and stronger winds around the upper crags at Brevent.  Hotel California is rapidly reached from Plan Praz and provided an excellent re-introduction to multi pitch rock climbing for Sheena today.  The route now has double bolt belays throughout the main section and bolt runners too but with some big gaps between in them in places meaning both a trad rack and cool head / grades in hand are recommended!

Sheena near the top of the main difficulties on the long crux 5a pitch on Hotel California, Plan Praz

The bolting on several pitches seems to assume trad gear will be placed or folk are happy with big run outs, so this is not a good route in general to push your grade on!  The 5a pitch is no pushover with some quite thin wall climbing at the top of a longer pitch with plenty of easy ground below.  We avoided the slightly ‘bolted on’ last pitch as we wanted a longer stomp up the hill to warm up!  An ascent of the Clocher de Plan Praz gives a much more satisfying conclusion to the route and we really enjoyed the 2 short and not very difficult but good exposed climbing on the Clocher Clochetons first pitch to reach the Clocher summit 2428m.

Sheena shifting round from the West face to South face on the Clocher. We belayed here before enjoying the wide cracks above, to the right of the fine classic 6a up the arête (Cocher Cochon).

The abseil off the Clocher can be made from the big anchors on the summit and the big ledge at the start of the route is reached with a single 50m rope, although watch out for the rope getting stuck behind the numerous large flakes when pulling it down!

2 August 2023, La Duchère, Les Contamines

Good to get a slight cooler cragging location by heading up to the lovely and shady Les Contamines, a 40min drive from Chamonix.  The sun does not arrive at the NW facing crag of La Duchére until around mid afternoon so the temperature was pleasant, as was the climbing.

• Panjolette gives perhaps the only 4* route down Les Contamines and it’s well deserved for a lovely long sustained pitch, never cruxy but a lot of it and with some fine walls lower down, friendly cracks on the upper half and an exposed and slightly committing but not too hard step right at the top.

Danny on the lovely lower cracks of the fine ‘Les Cyclames’ F5c on the secteur Lys at Duchère, Les Contamines. The continuation above the chain gives a fine strenuous 6b via some powerful lock offs up a short but steep wall!

• Jonathan, a few routes to the right gives a strikingly good 5c crack pitch to get going with the continuation up the upper wall giving a short but very steep series of powerful lock offs, well worth it’s 6b grade and a proper crux albeit not sustained overall as a 34m pitch.
• Likewise, Les Soldanelles, 6b, also crosses the overhangs to the left via some short sharp pulls on positive holds, easier if chalked!

30 July 2023, Manhattan, 6a, Grande Floria, Flegere

After our rapid morning ascent and descent of the lovely but short classic climb on the Index, we headed over to the nearby harder routes on the South face of the Grande Floria.  These had more seepage on them than the Index due to the large grassy terraces that criss cross the face, but with a little creativity in route choice we found pretty much dry rock after it had rained hard during the night.

Andy & Meg setting off from the deck at the base of the Grande Floria. This pitch is to the right of the normal start of Manhattan ( which was wet – but it can be used to approach the rest of the climb).

We climbed a nice clean dry wall several routes to the right of the normal start of Manhattan at about F5b (possibly Hotel Rwanda) which led to a good lower off / anchor with a small exposed ledge.  From here it was possible to do a very easy but largely unprotected pitch of slabby rock and foot holds in grass / turf to reach the belay at the start of the fine main wall on Manhattan.  This is an excellent long pitch but we thought more 5c than the 6a given in the Rockfax guide although the next 5c pitch is more like 6a with some sustained steep climbing on small holds going up through a bulge, although there is an easier 5c pitch to the left. above

The long and steep / overhanging central abseil on the descent of the Grande Floria via the abseil piste on the lookers left of the crag

There is another good 6a wall above that, again with an easier option on the left and from the top of that pitch it’s easy to reach the top of the abseil anchor up the ridge and across the grassy slopes to the left.  The 5a pitch across the gully to the right was literally running with water today and not very appealing.  The 3 long rappels were quite fun though and provide a pretty direct route back down to the base of the crag – although probably take longer than walking off for a team of 3.  2 x 50m ropes are required for this descent which starts down the easy grassy slopes at the top and heads over some big overhangs on the middle abseil below.

30 July 2023, South East Ridge of L’Index – A Chamonix Classic!

Mountain ambiance for Meg & Andy on the 2nd pitch of the classic SE Ridge of L’Index, Flegere, Chamonix

Lovely to have the Chamonix classic South East ridge of L’Index to ourselves this morning although part of the reason for that was probably the wet night and rather murky start to the day.  But things improved, the hair dryer wind and occasional parting in the clouds meant the rock dried quickly and we all enjoyed the climbing, views and general middle mountain ambiance.  It’s worth noting that there is less fixed equipment on this classic route than there used to be and it’s worth taking a trad rack for both runners and belay anchors as the only bolted anchor station is at the top of the first pitch.

A cloudy and chilly summers morning on the summit of L’Index but on the other hand, great to have the South East Ridge of the Index to ourselves & some very atmospheric mountain views as the clouds cleared.

There are still various pegs on the first pitch and dotted about the rest of the route and various fully equipped anchors for the rappels from near the summit.

19 July 2023, Away Day Alpine Rock Trip From Chamonix

If you are looking for some lovely sunny middle mountain alpine rock – check out the fine climbing around the Weissmies Hutte which we recently visited as a 2 day trip from Chamonix, with a night at the fine base camp of Weissmies Hutte – there is south facing mountain sport rock on the Jeggihorn, the more trad orientated ‘Jeggigrat’ as well as other alpine rock ridges, cragging and even a 4000m peak or two if you like your walk ins long!  Open until the 8th October this year – get in touch if you’d like to join us for a trip there.

10 July 2023, Le Paré, Servoz

We had heard the walk in was chunky but infact the Arve Valley guide book description was great, the paths were dry and we were even there in a bit less than the suggested 50mins.  But yes, it’s not road side :-)

Gav setting off on the monster Paré pitch of ‘Maque à Paris’ 6b+ and over 50m long!

It’s worth checking this big crag out though for the summer morning shade, if as this year, there are no Gypaetes nesting on the crag so it’s not restricted until November like most seasons.  Check Escalade 74 for more details, but for this year, they are reporting:

3 May 2023, Cacao Girls, Giétroz

Felt like the first day of summer rock climbing!   Despite all the recent rain, the route was basically dry, and thus a real pleasure and great alternative to skiing soft wet snow!  Steady climbing up the lower walls with some stiffer pulls and steeper climbing on the 3rd and last buttress.  A modern Chamonix classic!

Cacao Girls, above the French Swiss border at Le Châtelard. Good climbing in a great position and a modern classic }+ south facing and quick drying. Photo Kev Avery.

8 April 2023, Les Gaillands Intro Rock Climbing & Leading Skills

Very enjoyable day training and lead climb coaching with Chiara and Adam at Les Gaillands.  Loads of skills covered including and mainly teaching sound fundamentals for single pitch sport climbing, belaying, threading sport anchors and bottom roping.

Adam Lead climbing training at Les Gaillands in Chamonix

We climbed some of the lovely and easy (3s) classics on the Grand Gaillands including the superb 2 pitch ‘Pilier des Monchus’ which now has bolts on again after a spell as a trad route!  We also had a bit of a steeper challenge on the fine wall and overhang of ‘Le Toit’ (5c+) on the Echelle area where a lovely golden wall leads up to a bit of a groove and possible rest before some steep moves on small but positive holds through the roof.

March 2023, Into The Giffre Valley – Anthon & Chappelle Saint Gras

Down the Arve Valley and over the Col de Chatillon above Cluses lies a whole new inspiring area for both excellent limestone single pitch and ‘grandes voies’.  Anthon and Chappelle Saint Gras are both good examples of these lovely limestone walls.  Not steep by modern standards, but steep enough and often with thin, even fierce, technical climbing.

The actual rest, above the non rest, below the ‘bon blocage’ crux move on Variante de Vibrations (7a) on the sunny roadside wall at Anthon. Photo Jonny Baird.

We climbed Variante de Vibrations (7a) on the sunny roadside wall at Anthon which has sustained thin moves from the deck to a non rest with a hard lock off to follow (bon blocage!).  Although that section is shared with the 6c+ it’s also the crux of the 7a as there is a decent rest on the ledge up and then left from this move before another sustained but less thin section to join the fine Voie X (6b+) at around half height, but, fortunately, above the hard crux of that route!

At Chapelle Saint-Gras we climbed on the fine and popular Coucou Chérie secteur and (nearly) climbed the route of that name!  This consists of a stiff technical lower 6c+ pitch followed by a steeper but more juggy upper 6c pitch which, when combined in to 1 pitch, not unreasonably, weigh in at 7a.  And hardly soft touch at that!

The lower wall has an awkward single move off the ground to a rest below the fine moves up the lovely pillar.  These are steep and thin but positive and lead to a biggish deepish pocket to clip off.  After that the fun starts.  Left looks thin but right is harder still, so it’s left with layaways that are positive but reachy….on thin feet :-0 An exciting combo!

The strong and fit will very soon be rewarded with a jug next to the bolt to clip from….but for those who have hung around a bit too long below and are getting pumped….and increasingly alarmed by the gathering distance to the last bolt…well, it’s a clean fall, albeit quite a big one!!

The wall above remains moderately technical but has rests and is much easier than below, which is good, as the upper pitch kicks in pretty early and doesn’t hang about in building a bit of pump.  There are plenty of good holds though, until they run out at the very top of the steep wall, just before it eases back in to more slabby country.  This provides what feels like a physical challenge but is actually a technical one.  Spoiler Alert*….(*very good left heel hook!)

17 September 2022, Crakoukass & Brevent Crag

Back on Crakoukass today and enjoying the mild temperatures, quieter crags and lifts being open for another week or so.

Robin enjoying the slabbier ground above the steep (6b) pitch on Crackoukass

Good conditions & fun climbing – especially on this brilliant last pitch of Crakoukass, given 5b but maybe more like 5c.

Robin enjoying the brilliant last pitch of Crackoukass – 5b in the topo but maybe a little harder due to very good sustained climbing.

Likewise, a bit of a sandbag, as usual, on the Brevent crag.  We climbed L’homme est rare, 5c which is pretty thin and fierce for the first 5 bolts or so at that grade, felt more like 6b!  Or maybe it’s just a high gravity day – let us know if you have done it and what you thought!

Late August 2022, ‘New’ Piola Route, Brevent South Face

Good to share this ascent with fellow guides Martin Doyle and Jon Bracey.  The current president of the British Mountain Guides, and perhaps a future one!  Steady climbing leads up the lower walls with a nice series of steadier pitches leading in to the main 2 pitches up the wall below and through the roof which Fin de Babylon traverses under.  The 6b+ pitch up this wall has some great rock and a thin but short crux sequence just below some easier climbing up to the belay.   The 6c(+) pitch above this is sustained thin climbing, pretty unrelenting until, funnily enough, some bigger holds just where it starts to get really steep at the roof!  Another long and solid 6b pitch above this means this is the hardest of the now classic big 3 routes on the Brevent South face central section – Poeme à Lou, Fin de Babylon and this not so new Piola route.  The route is well bolted with a few longer run outs on the easier sections but plenty of gear around the crux sections.  We didn’t place any trad gear but do watch out for some pretty trad loose rock sections higher up both on the route and ledges towards the top of the route.

13 August 2022, Brevent 6a Combination – Clocher & Crakoukass

Great day linking up two of Brevent / Plan Praz’s big 6a classics.   With a walk in up to the 8 pitch Clocher route and then a walk across via the Col du Brevent path, initially to check the Frison Roche queue, and, as this was too long, we continued on down to Crakoukass.

Chris nearly on the summit of the Clocher after THE brilliant last pitch (6a)

The Clocher was busy but with an early start and determined approach, we led the charge up the series of very fine varied pitches featuring slabs, walls, cracks and some superb technical arete / ridge climbing to finish.  The 2nd 5c pitch has good high in the grade thin wall climbing and is a stiff challenge off the deck if you have skirted the first warm up pitch!   Note that the abseil from the Clocher back to the ground / col on the Brevent side is 25m so a full 50m is required and we rigged through the metal extension ring to give a little extra slack.

Very good steadier climbing on Crakoukass with the exception of the steep and physical 5th pitch which gets 6a in the Rockfax but now 6b on Camp to Camp and the Chamonix rock guide.  Good steep climbing with decent holds and gear but quite pumpy layback style climbing.

9 August 2022, Arete du Doigt, Pointe Percée

Chris on the Arete du Doigt, Pointe Percée

Brilliant mid summers day on the Arete du Doigt, D, 5c+, 6c/A0) on Pointe Percée (2752m) with Chris.  Lovely warm dry conditions albeit with some atmospheric swirling mist.  The route is in good condition and we did the direct line to the summit via the steep heavily bolted pitch at the top – A0 for us rather than 6c today!  Lots of sightings of Tichodromes, 2 Gypaete and a very burly old bouquetins on the ridge near the Col Verts as we descended via the Cheminees de Sallanches route.

9 July 2022, Zaubergerg, Gramusset. What. A. Route!

Brilliant sustained technical & high quality limestone climbing on this fine steep crag above the new Refuge Pointe Percée.

With 3 7a pitches plus a 6c+ and a tough 6b there is plenty of climbing on this micro big wall!  We took a pig for full big wall ambiance, and some home comforts like trainers for rapping, and enjoyed the ride, but it wasn’t all free!  Full report with lots of pictures here:

3 July 2022, La Fin de Babylon, Brevent Big Boot Rock – La Somone et Mic est Maousse

Good sustained wall climbing on this 2nd hardest of the 3 classics now on the central south face of the Brevent with Poeme à Lou being a bit easier (if the fixed rope is used!) and the new Piola Route, which crosses this one on the traverse pitch, being a bit harder.

Good sun rock conditions and lots of teams enjoying the middle mountain ambiance.  Report and photos here:

19 June 2022, Brevent Big Boot Rock – La Somone et Mic est Maousse

Fun climbing with Osgur (who is in training for the Matterhorn) on these 2 multi pitch Brevent easier classics.  Conditions are already very dry and there is not even much snow on the shady northern side of Brevent and the piste road down to the crags.  Trainers were fine today for accessing this area.  There are quite a few new bolts on La Somone so it feels a bit better protected than before with some new stances at the top of the penultimate pitch too.   Mic est Maousse still does not seem to have useable bolts in place at the top of the very last pitch as there are hangers missing on a couple of bolts up there although it is possible to finish easily up a grassy Chimney on the L with a bit of trad gear available (small to medium cams).

Osgur approaching the remarkably scenic belay ledge below the crux 5b pitch of La Somone with Mont Blanc beyond….

Thanks again for today Rob! Fantastic day of climbing

Osgur, Chamonix rock climbing & Matterhorn training, June 2022

11 June 2022, Hotel California, Plan-Praz – Start Of The Summer Middle Mountain Rock Season…

Great to be back on the sunny slopes of the Aiguilles Rouges and rapid access to the fine long F4-5 series of pitches on Hotel California.  There have been numerous changes to the stances and bolts have been added making the belays easier to use although we did not do the notoriously bold last pitch so not sure if that has any more bolts on it yet!?  Very little snow left for early June and we only crossed the tiniest of patches of snow in our trainers with no axe / crampons required.

Opening day at PlanPraz – Brevent – Welcome to the Hotel California!

28 May 2022, Midi South Face – Dry & Busy!

Lots of teams on various different routes on the South Face of the Midi today taking advantage of the already pretty dry conditions on the face with very little snow left on the ledges and pretty warm temperatures and pleasant high altitude sun rock.

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With a Large Pack Sometimes Alpine Tactics Are Required

Tim and Kevin on the Fine Granite Cracks and Grooves of the Rebuffat Route

The Beautiful Pale Golden Granite of the Midi South Face

Superb Rock Climbing Ambiance on the Midi South Face

Climbers Established on the Brilliant S Crack on the Classic Voie Rebbuffat

25 September 2021, Bada Boom, 6c, Les Perrons de Vallorcine (Emosson)

Great to be back on the South face of the Perrons for this big classic of the Mont Blanc Massif done in lovely early autumn sun and near perfect conditions.  After a steady approach the brilliant sustained headwall kicks in for 5 pitches around 6c or just below.  Well worth the effort of the walk in and climb in approach and great to share these soaring red and grey walls with soaring brown vultures…

2 August 2021, La Piste Oubliée, 6b, Brevent, Chamonix

One of the newer routes on the South Face of the Brevent and a good, albeit slightly harder, alternative to the Frison Roche if you have already done that, or, as it starts in the same place, if there is a big queue on that route!  More details via the link below.

30 July 2021, Acqua Concert, 6a, Emosson Dam

For a really enjoyable long multi pitch route, up to 6a max and finishing with a fun scramble in a fine position, to a proper summit, check out Acqua Concert above the Emosson Dam, just over the Swiss border.  There is even a good café at the end of the route with brilliant views of the big Chamonix North Faces…

6 July 2021, Sylvie Phobie, Barberine

Very good slab and wall climbing on the big multi pitch crag at Barberine before the storm came and the heavens opened…just!  We started up a newer route up and L of Sylvie Phobie, ‘Charly et ses drôles de dalles‘ which gave a good few pitches before it gets harder and there is an easy traverse R on the ledge to reach the anchor at the base of the crux pitch on Sylvie.   This currently has a bit of rope on the bolts just above the lower 6a+ move and the upper 6c+ crux balancey wall.  More details & photos on our news page here:

26 June 2021, Great adventure middle mountain ‘sport’ climbing on the South Face of Les Perrons

The speech marks indicate that, whilst this is a bolted route, with bolted anchors and runners, don’t expect a big clip up sport route with bolts every few metres like normal!   The harder pitches (6a and 6b) and moves are generally reasonably protected with bolts, but some of the easier 5b / 5c pitches are very run out with long sections of unprotected climbing.  But the rock is generally good and it’s a great place to climb, but it’s worth being very solid on slabby / wally 5c / 5b terrain to make the most of this route, more details here:

20 June 2021, Valley to Summit ascent of South Ridge Aiguille Purtscheller

Very enjoyable long alpine day featuring the long approach from Le Tour for some fun and fine climbing on the golden Chamonix Granite on the South facing, and quick drying, classic route on the Purtscheller.  Still plenty of snow on the north facing descent but with the bolted anchors all clear and above the snow + plenty of snow volume on the glacier below making for a rapid and easy descent.  Full details here:

25 June 2019, Warm Golden Granite On The South Face Of The Aiguille du Midi

Pitch 2 (5b) of several golden granite grooves on the Kohlman Route, one of the easiest routes on the magnificent South Face of the Midi.

Very enjoyable climbing conditions today on the Midi South face as, despite the heatwave, is was pretty pleasant up high with the cooling effects of the altitude and light breeze.  We climbed on the Kohlman Route on the right side of the South Face, just up and right from the start of the classic Rebuffat route.   The lower pitches were a pleasure with an easy step off the snow on to the first pitch and warm dry rock above.   Note that the bolts on the first 2 anchors are not equipped for rappel but just a collection of 2-3 individual bolts.  Teams were enjoying the Rebuffat and topping out in the station.  There were numerous sloughs / small avalanches down the south facing couloirs at either side of the face during the day and the snow on the approach slope was very soft and wet.