Tomaz Jakofcic

Tomaz is not only a massively experienced & talented climber, alpinist and guide, he’s also just a great person to be in the mountains with.  We are very proud to have him running some of our Mattherhorn and Chamonix Alpinist & Intro Alpine programmes.

Tomaz’s hard climbing CV is quite comically long and has far too many routes to mention here!   From hard rock climbing (up to F8b) to big wall climbs in the Karakorum (first alpine ascent of Eternal Flame to summit of Trango Tower) & Patagonia to hard alpine routes on expeditions to Alaska, Karakorum, Tien Shan etc.  In Nepal he has guided Everest and climbed Daulagiri (8167 m) by the NW Ridge and also done classic hard routes across the Alps like Eiger N. Face, Beyond Good & Evil and Divine Providence on Mont Blanc.  He has also climbed on Ben Nevis North Face!

Tomaz’s home mountains are the Julian Alps of Slovenia where he has made many new routes including some very hard mixed and rock ascents on the North Face of Triglav.   But despite this remarkably extensive variety of mountaineering experience, Tomaz is famous for being relaxed and great company in the mountains and has provided our guests with brilliant experiences both on training courses and private guiding, as the feedback below demonstrates.

Marc Adam, Chamonix Mountaineering & Matterhorn Ascent, August 2016

Now I’ve been back home for a couple of weeks I thought I should drop you a line to say a huge thanks for helping me realise my Matterhorn ambition!  The whole week with Tomaz was really great; he was good company, fun and enthusiastic, and with a clear love of the mountains. He was also able to get the most out of me with his patient determination and calm encouragement.

Although I brought some challenging weather (again), necessitating a short acclimatising programme, the Matterhorn ascent was brilliant throughout, and the subsequent climbs in the aguille rouges and via ferrata made for a varied alpine adventure.
Time to put my thinking cap on to dream up the next challenge!
Thanks again Rob, to you and your team.
Ilari Törönen, Chamonix Rock Climbing & Alpine Mountaineering July 2017
And today… what a Grande Finale to my trip – the Arête des Cosmiques!!! Today we were on the 7:30 lift (the first to go was 7:15, delayed due to ice or something?) up to the Aiguille du Midi. We started our descend from the Midi station at exactly 8:00am… and we were unbelievable back up at exactly 10:20am. That is something of a testament to the huge progress we’ve made over the past six days.
This has been an amazing six days with Tomaz, with huge progress and most of all, absolutely stunning routes, great fun and memories to last a lifetime. I will be back!!!
All the best, Ilari

Kosta Giannopoulos, Chamonix Alpine Intro, June 2016

Just got back from the last day of the course and it was bloody awesome so thanks for making it possible. It was a real privilege to have the climbing hardcore Tomaz as a guide.
Thanks again and hope you can help with Mont Blanc next time,